Race Report
Sarasota Marathon
Sarasota, FL
Sun, Feb 15/09
Marathon #317
4:03:36 - 5 AG
My hometown race! When I registered for the race right after last year’s race I had no idea I would be running a tough marathon (weather-wise) in Tahiti the week before. But there was no way I was NOT going to run my hometown marathon! Many of my running buddies from the local running club participate in this race and we always enjoy a great post-race party!
My legs were totally wasted/trashed at the end of the Tahiti marathon and then I had to do three training runs in the brutal heat on Bora Bora just to keep the old legs in shape for Sarasota. When I struggled during a 10-mile training run on Wed I decided to take an extra day’s rest to let my legs recover for Sarasota. Then we had the long flights and a midnight arrival home on Fri. On Sat when I picked up my race packet I had no idea how well my legs would be for the race on Sun. And even though the race had moved up three weeks from 2008 the weather forecast was calling for warmer weather than normal. Oh great! Just what I needed – another warm/hot weather race!
About the only good thing to happen before this race was the great pasta dinner the Sports Manager cooked- she makes the best spaghetti bolognaise in the world!
Sun was ‘M’ Day. There were about 2500 runners lined up at the Ringling Museum for the 6 am start About 400 in the marathon and 2100 in the Half). The temp felt much cooler than Tahiti – 64 F and 90% humidity. I decided to go out at a 3:45 pace and see how long I could hold it? Not long apparently as I passed 5 miles in 43:00 but a split of 9:14/mile.
When I reached 10 miles in 1:27:19 and a split of 8:58 I knew at that point the race was essentially over for me. I struggled to lower the pace but my legs were already tired/wasted so I decided the smartest thing to do was to back off and treat the race as a long training run. I tried to hold an ‘easy’ 9:00-min pace but by the time I crossed the Half in 1:56:15 my pace had slowed to 9:30s. I knew that a sub-4 hr finish was not going to happen but I hoped that I might finish close to 4 hrs? I let the pace slip to 9:40s which really helped and around 17 miles I started to feel the old legs recovering some? When the 4-hr pace group passed me at 19 miles it was discouraging but I tried to keep them in sight as long as possible. I passed mile 20 in 3:03:52. A quick calculation confirmed that I needed a 9:00min/mile pace over the last 10 Km to beat 4 hours. That wasn’t going to happen so I just tried to follow the 4-hr pace group for as long as possible. When I passed mile 23 in 3:32:31 and a split of 9:39 I figured the best I could do was to finish close to 4:05? Somehow I managed to keep the old legs shuffling and crossed the finish line in 4:03:36.
It wasn’t pretty and it hurt even though I backed off but I fared much better than the many runners who were in the medical tent at the finish line. A lot of runners suffered from cramps and dehydration due to the high humidity! I was disappointed that my body/legs had not been able to recover as fast as they normally do after a run but am smart/experienced enough to know that can happen and it is best just to forget a ‘bad’ run and move on to the next one.
Some of my friends enjoyed a good race and finish time but many were disappointed because they were not able to qualify for Boston as planned. However we all met after the race at Linda’s for a great post-race party with lots of food and beer. Next year I am going to focus on this race and try to regain the championship in my AG. I am tired of getting beat in my own race!
But right now I realize that I need some rest and ‘down’ time from running. My legs are totally wasted. My body is sending me ‘HUGE’ signs that it need rest. I have come down with another head/chest cold and the constant coughing/hacking is killing my back. I developed a severe pain in my lower back in Tahiti. It is the same old symptoms/problems I usually suffer every spring. I always figured it was caused by the long drive to CO but this time I believe it was the bad/soft beds in Tahiti. I am going to take most of the week off from running and then try some easy runs.
I am scheduled to run the Gasparilla Marathon in Tampa in two weeks. However I may decide to skip it or just do it as a long training run?
Stay tuned!
Tuesday, February 17, 2009
Monday, February 16, 2009
TR - French Polynesia
TRIP REPORT
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Feb 1-12/09
Race results:
Tahiti-Moorea Marathon
Moorea, French Polynesia
Sat, Feb 7/09
Marathon # 316 – Country #100
4:14:27
TEN down – ZERO to go! Country #100 ** New World Record**
I DID IT! I accomplished my goal of breaking the World Record!
It seems like a long time ago (April 08) when I announced that I was going after the World Record of completing a marathon in 99 Countries. There were times when I thought Maddog was being too aggressive/obsessive in demanding that I accomplish this goal before I turned 65 (in March)!
I had initially wanted to run countries #99 and 100 in English-speaking countries but Maddog’s time table did not permit that option so I chose Tahiti as # 100 because it is a place I have always wanted to visit and I would have my Sports Manager and personal translator along for the trip. A good friend in Sarasota, Frank Ouseley, who I often referred to as ‘the only other sane person in the world’ (now nick-named the ‘Mad Monk’) decided to join us at the last moment. On Feb 1 we all left for the long trip to Papeete, Tahiti. Due to flight cancellations and schedule changes by Air Tahiti (before the start of the trip) we were scheduled to spend a few more days in the French Polynesia Islands than originally planned.
We arrived in Papeete on Sun night and had 2 days to explore the capital city and Tahiti. This was enough time to do our shopping for gifts/souvenirs, do some training runs to acclimate to the heat/humidity, explore the city and take a circular drive/tour of the island. On the first day we toured Papeete on foot while shopping and enjoying some Polynesian food and beer. The food was OK but not spectacular and the beer is not very good but everything is expensive! One can easily do a walking tour of the city in a ½ day to visit the Harbour, Place Vaiete, the Market, City Hall and the old military section of the city. On our final day we took a ½ day circular tour of Tahiti to visit the Maraa Grotto Caves, Faaurumai Waterfall, Paul Gaugin Museum and One Tree Hill (see photos). That evening we celebrated the Sports Manager’s birthday at a fancy French restaurant and she received a lovely black Tahitian pearl for a present!
The following day we took a short 10-minute flight to Moorea where the marathon was being run. We had booked beach bungalows near Hauru Point. The road around Moorea is 60 Km long – we were located at Km 28 – mid way around the island from the airport and Temae Beach where the marathon started/finished. There is no public transport on Moorea except-only busses that take tourists to/from the ferry terminal. The race had arranged for these busses to transport runners to/from the race activities. It took exactly 1 hour for the 30 Km ride no matter which direction the bus went and we ended up having a few circular island tours free of charge!
On Thu we enjoyed such a circular tour to travel to the finish area on Tamae Beach to register and pick up our race packets. I had requested Bib # 100 and was pleased that the race organization had granted my request. On Fri we had to return to Tamae Beach for the pasta party and Polynesian show. I had an opportunity to meet and talk to Horst Preisler from Germany. Horst had emailed me to let me know that he and another member of the ‘Country Club’, Stefan Schlett, would be running the race. Horst holds the World Record for marathons with 1604 marathons completed. We took advantage of the opportunity to pose for a photo – together we represented a total of 1920 marathons and 152 countries!
Sat was ‘M’ day! I was concerned about the weather. Before we left for Tahiti we had checked the forecast. It looked like a broken record- highs around 88 and lows around 78 F with showers – every day! It had rained hard both nights and early mornings before the race. I was actually hoping for rain since it might cool down the temps. No luck – the weather was nice on race morning with temps around 80 F at the 4:30 am start in the dark. We didn’t expect the race to start on time and were surprised as we walked up from the beach to a paved/lighted road to start the race. I was double-knotting my shoe laces a few hundred meters from the start line when the gun went off? I ran to catch up but wasn’t concerned because 26 miles provides lots of time to catch up. I had a special singlet printed for the race that read “Pays # 100” on the front and “John’s 100th Country” on the back so received a lot of comments as I caught up and passed most of the pack. My race strategy was to go out at a 3:45 pace for the 1st half during the dark (and cool) hours because I knew I would slow drastically when the sun came up. I reached 10 Km in 54:36 – right on pace – but my split for that Km had slowed to 5:45/km (9:12/mile). That was not good! I managed to lower the pace back down to 5:30s (8:40s/mile) until I passed 15 km in 1:23:18 and a split of 5:45 again. I had to struggle to hold that pace until I reached the Half in 1:58:04. I knew right then that a sub-4 hr finish was not going to happen! I was already struggling to keep the pace below 6:00/km (9:30/mile) and my heart rate was running about 10 to 15bpm faster than normal. I figured it was high because of the extra work needed to cool my body?
As the sun started to come up the heat/humidity soared and I wilted like a prize flower! By 30 Km (2:44:50) my pace had slowed above 6:00/Km and I was desperately trying NOT to walk! It became a very painful struggle and mind game. I tried to drink as much water as possible and poured water over my head and body at every water station. I was hoping to finish under 4:05 but when I passed 35 Km in 3:23:12 and a split of 6:39 (10:40) I knew that wasn’t possible but I became determined that I would finish under 4:15 and BQ (Boston Qualifying) time – or die trying! The latter might have been less painful. The last 2 Km were sheer Hell as my pace slipped above 7:00s/Km (11/mile). Those were the longest 2 Km I have ever ran (in slow motion) in my life. But finally I reached the entrance to the beach and crossed the finish line in 4:14:27 to lots of cheers. A photographer from Runner’s World (German issue) took a photo at the finish line for the running magazine. Hopefully one of my German friends will forward a copy if the photo does make the magazine?
After a few finish line photos I walked straight into the ocean in an effort to cool down. Boy – did that water feel good! A quick check of the results confirmed that I did not place in a tough Age Group (Veterans 55+) so we decided to take the first bus back to the hotels to shower and rest up. The MadMonk had registered for the marathon but wisely changed his mind during the race and completed the Half marathon instead. Otherwise he would have been out on the course – and in that heat/humidity for almost 6 hours!
We enjoyed a great dinner that night (washed down with lots of beer and wine) to celebrate a new World Record. 100 Countries!
The following day we took another plane on to Bora Bora for four days of R & R. Bora Bora is smaller and much prettier/scenic that the other islands visited but after one day we decided to change the name to Boring Boring! There was not much to do. None of us were beach people who could enjoy just laying on the beach in the sun. It was too damn HOT and the sun would burn you to a crisp in 30 minutes. So we sat on the patio of our beach bungalow (drank beer) and enjoyed the scenery. Both Maddog and MadMonk had to run very early (4 am to escape the heat) every day to prepare for our hometown marathon the next weekend when we returned home. But the rest of the day was boring- boring so we got desperate and rented a car to tour the island. The drive/tour took one hour. We used the remaining 23 hours of rental to visit the main village of Vaitape to shop for groceries, visit an internet café and later go to Bloody Mary’s for dinner. MadMonk scheduled a visit to the studio of Alain Despert – a world-renowned artist – to buy a painting.
On our final day on Bora Bora we took a boat tour around the island and snorkeled in the lagoons with stingrays and sharks. That was a pleasant and exciting tour/adventure. Although the FPI are beautiful and scenic and the people are friendly we were glad to be heading back home. It was so Damn HOT!
Now that we are back home what’s next on the agenda. First is my hometown marathon in Sarasota, FL. Hopefully the weather will be much cooler than Tahiti?
After that there are NO goals! Yes – you read that right! NO MORE GOALS! Whenever I set a goal it immediately becomes an OBSESSION for Maddog and he almost kills me getting it done!
I still want/plan to run a few more international marathons and countries but at a much slower rate – maybe 1 or 2 per year. I still plan to run domestic races but mostly home-state races in whichever state I am living in during the year. I am tired of airplanes and need a rest from travel.
So that is also Good news for y’all because you hopefully will get a rest form reading trip/race reports?
Stay tuned!
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Feb 1-12/09
Race results:
Tahiti-Moorea Marathon
Moorea, French Polynesia
Sat, Feb 7/09
Marathon # 316 – Country #100
4:14:27
TEN down – ZERO to go! Country #100 ** New World Record**
I DID IT! I accomplished my goal of breaking the World Record!
It seems like a long time ago (April 08) when I announced that I was going after the World Record of completing a marathon in 99 Countries. There were times when I thought Maddog was being too aggressive/obsessive in demanding that I accomplish this goal before I turned 65 (in March)!
I had initially wanted to run countries #99 and 100 in English-speaking countries but Maddog’s time table did not permit that option so I chose Tahiti as # 100 because it is a place I have always wanted to visit and I would have my Sports Manager and personal translator along for the trip. A good friend in Sarasota, Frank Ouseley, who I often referred to as ‘the only other sane person in the world’ (now nick-named the ‘Mad Monk’) decided to join us at the last moment. On Feb 1 we all left for the long trip to Papeete, Tahiti. Due to flight cancellations and schedule changes by Air Tahiti (before the start of the trip) we were scheduled to spend a few more days in the French Polynesia Islands than originally planned.
We arrived in Papeete on Sun night and had 2 days to explore the capital city and Tahiti. This was enough time to do our shopping for gifts/souvenirs, do some training runs to acclimate to the heat/humidity, explore the city and take a circular drive/tour of the island. On the first day we toured Papeete on foot while shopping and enjoying some Polynesian food and beer. The food was OK but not spectacular and the beer is not very good but everything is expensive! One can easily do a walking tour of the city in a ½ day to visit the Harbour, Place Vaiete, the Market, City Hall and the old military section of the city. On our final day we took a ½ day circular tour of Tahiti to visit the Maraa Grotto Caves, Faaurumai Waterfall, Paul Gaugin Museum and One Tree Hill (see photos). That evening we celebrated the Sports Manager’s birthday at a fancy French restaurant and she received a lovely black Tahitian pearl for a present!
The following day we took a short 10-minute flight to Moorea where the marathon was being run. We had booked beach bungalows near Hauru Point. The road around Moorea is 60 Km long – we were located at Km 28 – mid way around the island from the airport and Temae Beach where the marathon started/finished. There is no public transport on Moorea except-only busses that take tourists to/from the ferry terminal. The race had arranged for these busses to transport runners to/from the race activities. It took exactly 1 hour for the 30 Km ride no matter which direction the bus went and we ended up having a few circular island tours free of charge!
On Thu we enjoyed such a circular tour to travel to the finish area on Tamae Beach to register and pick up our race packets. I had requested Bib # 100 and was pleased that the race organization had granted my request. On Fri we had to return to Tamae Beach for the pasta party and Polynesian show. I had an opportunity to meet and talk to Horst Preisler from Germany. Horst had emailed me to let me know that he and another member of the ‘Country Club’, Stefan Schlett, would be running the race. Horst holds the World Record for marathons with 1604 marathons completed. We took advantage of the opportunity to pose for a photo – together we represented a total of 1920 marathons and 152 countries!
Sat was ‘M’ day! I was concerned about the weather. Before we left for Tahiti we had checked the forecast. It looked like a broken record- highs around 88 and lows around 78 F with showers – every day! It had rained hard both nights and early mornings before the race. I was actually hoping for rain since it might cool down the temps. No luck – the weather was nice on race morning with temps around 80 F at the 4:30 am start in the dark. We didn’t expect the race to start on time and were surprised as we walked up from the beach to a paved/lighted road to start the race. I was double-knotting my shoe laces a few hundred meters from the start line when the gun went off? I ran to catch up but wasn’t concerned because 26 miles provides lots of time to catch up. I had a special singlet printed for the race that read “Pays # 100” on the front and “John’s 100th Country” on the back so received a lot of comments as I caught up and passed most of the pack. My race strategy was to go out at a 3:45 pace for the 1st half during the dark (and cool) hours because I knew I would slow drastically when the sun came up. I reached 10 Km in 54:36 – right on pace – but my split for that Km had slowed to 5:45/km (9:12/mile). That was not good! I managed to lower the pace back down to 5:30s (8:40s/mile) until I passed 15 km in 1:23:18 and a split of 5:45 again. I had to struggle to hold that pace until I reached the Half in 1:58:04. I knew right then that a sub-4 hr finish was not going to happen! I was already struggling to keep the pace below 6:00/km (9:30/mile) and my heart rate was running about 10 to 15bpm faster than normal. I figured it was high because of the extra work needed to cool my body?
As the sun started to come up the heat/humidity soared and I wilted like a prize flower! By 30 Km (2:44:50) my pace had slowed above 6:00/Km and I was desperately trying NOT to walk! It became a very painful struggle and mind game. I tried to drink as much water as possible and poured water over my head and body at every water station. I was hoping to finish under 4:05 but when I passed 35 Km in 3:23:12 and a split of 6:39 (10:40) I knew that wasn’t possible but I became determined that I would finish under 4:15 and BQ (Boston Qualifying) time – or die trying! The latter might have been less painful. The last 2 Km were sheer Hell as my pace slipped above 7:00s/Km (11/mile). Those were the longest 2 Km I have ever ran (in slow motion) in my life. But finally I reached the entrance to the beach and crossed the finish line in 4:14:27 to lots of cheers. A photographer from Runner’s World (German issue) took a photo at the finish line for the running magazine. Hopefully one of my German friends will forward a copy if the photo does make the magazine?
After a few finish line photos I walked straight into the ocean in an effort to cool down. Boy – did that water feel good! A quick check of the results confirmed that I did not place in a tough Age Group (Veterans 55+) so we decided to take the first bus back to the hotels to shower and rest up. The MadMonk had registered for the marathon but wisely changed his mind during the race and completed the Half marathon instead. Otherwise he would have been out on the course – and in that heat/humidity for almost 6 hours!
We enjoyed a great dinner that night (washed down with lots of beer and wine) to celebrate a new World Record. 100 Countries!
The following day we took another plane on to Bora Bora for four days of R & R. Bora Bora is smaller and much prettier/scenic that the other islands visited but after one day we decided to change the name to Boring Boring! There was not much to do. None of us were beach people who could enjoy just laying on the beach in the sun. It was too damn HOT and the sun would burn you to a crisp in 30 minutes. So we sat on the patio of our beach bungalow (drank beer) and enjoyed the scenery. Both Maddog and MadMonk had to run very early (4 am to escape the heat) every day to prepare for our hometown marathon the next weekend when we returned home. But the rest of the day was boring- boring so we got desperate and rented a car to tour the island. The drive/tour took one hour. We used the remaining 23 hours of rental to visit the main village of Vaitape to shop for groceries, visit an internet café and later go to Bloody Mary’s for dinner. MadMonk scheduled a visit to the studio of Alain Despert – a world-renowned artist – to buy a painting.
On our final day on Bora Bora we took a boat tour around the island and snorkeled in the lagoons with stingrays and sharks. That was a pleasant and exciting tour/adventure. Although the FPI are beautiful and scenic and the people are friendly we were glad to be heading back home. It was so Damn HOT!
Now that we are back home what’s next on the agenda. First is my hometown marathon in Sarasota, FL. Hopefully the weather will be much cooler than Tahiti?
After that there are NO goals! Yes – you read that right! NO MORE GOALS! Whenever I set a goal it immediately becomes an OBSESSION for Maddog and he almost kills me getting it done!
I still want/plan to run a few more international marathons and countries but at a much slower rate – maybe 1 or 2 per year. I still plan to run domestic races but mostly home-state races in whichever state I am living in during the year. I am tired of airplanes and need a rest from travel.
So that is also Good news for y’all because you hopefully will get a rest form reading trip/race reports?
Stay tuned!
Tuesday, January 27, 2009
RR - Miami
Race Report
Miami Marathon
Sun, Jan 25/09
Marathon # 315
3:47:23
I will try to make this report brief since nothing exciting or interesting happened during the race. The interesting events took place before the race!
I only signed up for this race for the 4th consecutive year because of the 50 % discount on the entry fee if I registered within a few days after last year’s race. I was glad I had because the marathon offered a once-in- a-lifetime opportunity to visit with my good friend and mentor Wally Herman and enjoy a short time together while we share the World Record of 99 Countries!
After a boring drive across Alligator Alley the Sports Manager and I picked up my race packet in Miami Beach and drove up to Wally’s winter home near West Palm Beach about 60 miles north of Miami. We joined Wally and his wife Marie for a pleasant pasta dinner at a nearby restaurant. Wally is a very fine and reserved/shy gentleman - 83 years YOUNG – who still runs 12 to 15 marathons every year! We caught up on running news/gossip and discussed our latest stats. Wally was running marathon # 709 at Miami and Maddog was running a comparatively low # 315. And for a very brief time we would both share the World Record of 99 Countries! I almost feel sad and guilty about breaking his record – a record he has held for as long as I can remember – certainly before I started running 27 years ago! However Wally has approved and is content that a good friend will be the one to break his record! To celebrate the occasion I broke a cardinal rule about imbibing the night before a race and joined our friends for a glass of wine with dinner.
Sun was ‘M’ Day. It was a little warmer than expected – 63 F at the 6:15 am start in the dark. Luckily I arrived early and managed to line up at the front the 2nd corral where I was seeded. I was only a few feet behind the Kenyans and pack of elite athletes. There were 15,500 runners behind us – 3500 in the Marathon and 12,000 in the Half. My race strategy was to go out at a 3:45 pace and hold that pace as long as I could. From past experience I knew that time would not be competitive in this race but I mainly wanted to do a long/hard training run.
As we charged across the MacArthur Causeway and enjoyed the spectacular sight of many cruise ships lit up in the dark I passed Mile 1 in 8:30 and Mile 3 in 24:59 – right on pace! However when I reached mile 6 on South Beach in 50:51 I became concerned because my legs had not settled into a smooth/easy flow like they normally do by that distance? Instead I was forcing the pace which was not good because it takes more effort/energy. I passed Wally around Mile 9 (he started 45 minutes early to beat the 6-hr time limit on the course) and reached Mile 10 in 1:24:56. I passed the Half in 1:51:42 – 5 secs faster than Tiberias a few weeks ago – but there was a big difference! My pace was still not smooth/easy and my legs did not feel as good/fresh as Tiberias. I knew right then that the 2nd Half would not be as fast and that the race was probably going to get ugly around 20 miles! My prediction proved to be true sooner than expected as I reached Mile 18 in 2:33:37 and a split of 8:40. I struggled to hold an 8:40 pace over the next two miles and reach Mile 20 in 2:51:06. I knew at that point that a sub-3:45 wasn’t going to happen! I figured that if I could hold 8:40s till Mile 23 I could hopefully ‘gut out’ the final 5 Km and finish under 3:50?
However the next 3 miles were a painful struggle and when I reached Mile 23 in 3:17:32 and a split of 9:00 I knew the race was essentially over for me. I had ‘hit the wall’. There was nothing left in my legs! I knew that if I stopped or started walking the final 5 Km would be very slow/ugly/painful so I had no choice but to summon Maddog and hand the final 5 km and race over to him. Somehow he managed to block out the pain and keep my wasted old legs moving/shuffling on energy fumes and willpower. As we shuffled towards the finish line all I could think about was how painful and tortuous the final 5 km of this race had been for the past 3 years? As a desperate attempt to provide a distraction from the pain and create an incentive to keep my legs moving I promised myself a nice reward if I didn’t walk – I would give myself a break and skip these 5 km from Hell and the entire race next year! That was reason/incentive enough to keep my tired/wasted old legs shuffling at a 9:15 pace – even over the final bridge into downtown Miami – and across the finish line in 3:47:23 -- without walking!
As expected that finish time was not competitive (9th place out of 25 runners in my AG) but I was satisfied with my time and effort. It had indeed been a long and hard training run and good preparation for my next adventure – the BIG event – Country # 100 in Tahiti on Feb 7/09!
Maddog, the Sports Manager and Mad Monk leave for Tahiti next weekend.
Stay tuned!
Miami Marathon
Sun, Jan 25/09
Marathon # 315
3:47:23
I will try to make this report brief since nothing exciting or interesting happened during the race. The interesting events took place before the race!
I only signed up for this race for the 4th consecutive year because of the 50 % discount on the entry fee if I registered within a few days after last year’s race. I was glad I had because the marathon offered a once-in- a-lifetime opportunity to visit with my good friend and mentor Wally Herman and enjoy a short time together while we share the World Record of 99 Countries!
After a boring drive across Alligator Alley the Sports Manager and I picked up my race packet in Miami Beach and drove up to Wally’s winter home near West Palm Beach about 60 miles north of Miami. We joined Wally and his wife Marie for a pleasant pasta dinner at a nearby restaurant. Wally is a very fine and reserved/shy gentleman - 83 years YOUNG – who still runs 12 to 15 marathons every year! We caught up on running news/gossip and discussed our latest stats. Wally was running marathon # 709 at Miami and Maddog was running a comparatively low # 315. And for a very brief time we would both share the World Record of 99 Countries! I almost feel sad and guilty about breaking his record – a record he has held for as long as I can remember – certainly before I started running 27 years ago! However Wally has approved and is content that a good friend will be the one to break his record! To celebrate the occasion I broke a cardinal rule about imbibing the night before a race and joined our friends for a glass of wine with dinner.
Sun was ‘M’ Day. It was a little warmer than expected – 63 F at the 6:15 am start in the dark. Luckily I arrived early and managed to line up at the front the 2nd corral where I was seeded. I was only a few feet behind the Kenyans and pack of elite athletes. There were 15,500 runners behind us – 3500 in the Marathon and 12,000 in the Half. My race strategy was to go out at a 3:45 pace and hold that pace as long as I could. From past experience I knew that time would not be competitive in this race but I mainly wanted to do a long/hard training run.
As we charged across the MacArthur Causeway and enjoyed the spectacular sight of many cruise ships lit up in the dark I passed Mile 1 in 8:30 and Mile 3 in 24:59 – right on pace! However when I reached mile 6 on South Beach in 50:51 I became concerned because my legs had not settled into a smooth/easy flow like they normally do by that distance? Instead I was forcing the pace which was not good because it takes more effort/energy. I passed Wally around Mile 9 (he started 45 minutes early to beat the 6-hr time limit on the course) and reached Mile 10 in 1:24:56. I passed the Half in 1:51:42 – 5 secs faster than Tiberias a few weeks ago – but there was a big difference! My pace was still not smooth/easy and my legs did not feel as good/fresh as Tiberias. I knew right then that the 2nd Half would not be as fast and that the race was probably going to get ugly around 20 miles! My prediction proved to be true sooner than expected as I reached Mile 18 in 2:33:37 and a split of 8:40. I struggled to hold an 8:40 pace over the next two miles and reach Mile 20 in 2:51:06. I knew at that point that a sub-3:45 wasn’t going to happen! I figured that if I could hold 8:40s till Mile 23 I could hopefully ‘gut out’ the final 5 Km and finish under 3:50?
However the next 3 miles were a painful struggle and when I reached Mile 23 in 3:17:32 and a split of 9:00 I knew the race was essentially over for me. I had ‘hit the wall’. There was nothing left in my legs! I knew that if I stopped or started walking the final 5 Km would be very slow/ugly/painful so I had no choice but to summon Maddog and hand the final 5 km and race over to him. Somehow he managed to block out the pain and keep my wasted old legs moving/shuffling on energy fumes and willpower. As we shuffled towards the finish line all I could think about was how painful and tortuous the final 5 km of this race had been for the past 3 years? As a desperate attempt to provide a distraction from the pain and create an incentive to keep my legs moving I promised myself a nice reward if I didn’t walk – I would give myself a break and skip these 5 km from Hell and the entire race next year! That was reason/incentive enough to keep my tired/wasted old legs shuffling at a 9:15 pace – even over the final bridge into downtown Miami – and across the finish line in 3:47:23 -- without walking!
As expected that finish time was not competitive (9th place out of 25 runners in my AG) but I was satisfied with my time and effort. It had indeed been a long and hard training run and good preparation for my next adventure – the BIG event – Country # 100 in Tahiti on Feb 7/09!
Maddog, the Sports Manager and Mad Monk leave for Tahiti next weekend.
Stay tuned!
Tuesday, January 20, 2009
TR - Israel - Part 2
TRIP REPORT
ISRAEL
1/05 – 1/15/09
Part 2
Now where did we leave off? Oh yeah! I had finished the Tiberias Marathon and we were ready to begin a one-week tour of Israel. I had always wanted to visit Israel with its many historical and biblical sites. When registering for the marathon I researched extensively on the Net for tours. The first thing I discovered was that most tours offered the same itinerary and all the tours were expensive! Another problem was that most tours started in Tel Aviv on Sun and ended there one week later. That meant going back to Tel Aviv for a few days and extending the trip? However I found a tour agency that agreed to let us join the end of one tour as it passed through Tiberias on Fri after the race and join a new tour on Sun in Tel Aviv. We waited for our tour guide to pick us up at our hotel in Tiberias on Fri morning.
But first before I begin the stories (or ‘fairy tales’) of our tour I must state this disclaimer: my stories/tales are my recollection of the stories/tales related to us by our tour guides which were supposedly based on historical facts and the bible! I accept no responsibility for the accuracy or truth of these tales! Let us begin. Also I suggest that to make it easier to understand and follow our tour that you print this report and follow the photos posted on my photo website.
Our guide, Ezra, picked us up at 8 am and we joined three English-speaking couples (Wales, NZ and Australia) for a short drive along the Sea of Galilee to Capernaum. According to Christian belief the village of Capernaum was the home base of Jesus during the most influential period of his Galilean ministry. He preached at the synagogue and healed the sick including Peter’s stepmother. He stayed in St Peter’s house. Then we continued along the Sea of Galilee to the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus preached to his disciples in his Sermon on the Mount. We continued into Northern Israel to the ancient city of Safed founded in the 2nd Century BC. The labyrinth of cobbled streets is lined with medieval synagogues and an artist’s colony.
From Safed we drove through the Hula Valley and across the Jordan River into the Golan Heights. As we climbed the Golan Heights Ezra pointed out the mine fields on both sides of the road. Instead of spending time and money to clear the mines the Israeli government allows the farmers to graze their cattle in the mine fields. If a cow steps on a mine there is instant, cheap hamburger available! We stopped in Katzrin, a new Jewish settlement in the Golan Heights, for lunch. It looks much like a new American town with wide streets, bungalows, etc. The town and the locals go out of their way to provide tourists with publicity and information about how much they have accomplished in the Golan Heights and fervently state that they will not move if Israel gives the Golan Heights back to Syria in a peace accord! After lunch we continued farther north into the Golan Heights to visit a former Syrian fortification near Nimrod on the Syrian border. It was cold standing on top of that mountain looking down into Syria! We then drove west back through the Hula Valley to the Banias Nature Reserve that is one of the sources of the Jordan River. Ezra pointed out that the six-day war with Syria was all about controlling the water from the Jordan River and Israel will never give up that control! We had hoped to visit a waterfall but the guards were locking up the gate at 3 pm to make an early escape for Shabbat (sunset Fri to sunset Sat). So we drove on to Kfar Giladi near the Lebanon border where we stayed one night at a kibbutz. Ezra advised us not to leave the compound of the Kibbutz since we were so close to Lebanon. He warned us NOT to climb the mountain behind the kibbutz because Lebanon was on the other side! We obeyed and went to the bar in the kibbutz. I wanted to do a training run on Sat morning but decided my legs needed an extra day’s rest ( read – chicken or smart – but I wasn’t running that close to the border with the risk of rockets flying).
After breakfast we drove south and west along the Lebanon border to the Mediterranean Sea. This region contains a lot of orchards and vegetable farms. We stopped in the ancient city of Akko – more than 5,000 years old. It has a natural port that was captured and used by the Crusaders in the 11th Century and it has changed hands many times. There are ruins dating back before the Crusaders but fortifications built by the Crusaders are still intact and original. We visited Crusader City and Knight’s Hall and then strolled through the Arab market to the Port passing the El Jazzar Mosque and the Khan El Omdan. I really liked Akko and suggest that you allocate at least 2 days to visit the city. Our visit lasted three hours before we left and continued south to Haifa. Since it was Shabbat not much was open and we enjoyed a falafel –pita bread stuffed with spicy meat and vegetables – at a local fast food stand. It was strange but no matter where we ate lunch – at a fast food stand, restaurant or cafeteria – it always seemed to cost 100 NIS (shekels) ($25 US) and dinner cost 200 to 300 NIS? Nothing was cheap in Israel! And most of the food/meals sucked! Very little variety or taste!
After lunch we visited the Baha’i Gardens on Mt Carmel dedicated to Baha’ullah, the founder of the faith. We continued south to Caesarea that dates back to the 4th century BC. Herod built a city and his Palace there in 22 BC. And the crusaders rebuilt the city in the 11th Century. We visited the Hippodrome, Herod’s Palace and a restored Amphitheatre that is now used for concerts. We again continued south along the Sea to Tel Aviv and stopped in Old Jaffa – a port city that offers fantastic views of Tel Aviv. We visited the market and strolled along the cobbled streets of the old city and over the Wishing Bridge. It is rumored that if you touch your zodiac sign to the rail while looking towards the Sea and make a wish it will come true? Ezra then dropped us off at our hotel in Tel Aviv and we bid farewell to our fellow tourists who had finished their tour.
Sun was a free day in Tel Aviv for Nicole and me as we waited for the next tour group to arrive and the tour to start on Mon. On sun I enjoyed a pleasant 12-mile run along the Sea in Tel Aviv and discovered a network of trails/paths that allowed runners/bikers to go more than 100 Kms without having to worry about traffic. As I was running I shouted my normal “good morning” to all runners/walkers/bikers that I met. They looked at me like I was crazy? Israelis are not very friendly! There are not a lot of tourist sites in Tel Aviv so we did a self-guided walking tour through the Yemenite Quarter that took us through Carmel Market and along Rothschild Blvd past Independence Hall and the Haganah Museum. It finished along Sheinken St, one of the principal shopping areas of Tel Aviv.
On Mon morning we joined 12 new tourists and tour guide Avi for the start of the next tour. We experienced the first minor change in the itinerary caused by the war/problems in Gaza. The tour was supposed to drive south along the Sea to Ashkelon and then head west to the Dead Sea. However Ashkelon is ‘very’ close to Gaza and the tour agency considered the city and highway unsafe. Good thing because Hamas fired 15 rockets into Ashkelon that day! There were no objections or disappointment expressed by the passengers as we headed directly west from Tel Aviv via Jerusalem and Jericho to the Dead Sea. At Beit Ha’arava we turned south along the Dead Sea. We made a brief stop for an obligatory factory tour – only this was one of the few times it was welcomed. It was the Ahava factory that manufactures (expensive) cosmetics from minerals in the Dead Sea that are therapeutic for the skin. Nicole uses the product and surprisingly the factory prices were 50% less than US prices. I told her to load up because it was probably the only bargain we would find in Israel! We continued on to Masada.
Masada is a historic site that I have wanted to visit since seeing the movie twenty years ago (Peter O’Toole). Masada is a desert mesa that rises high and alone above the Dead Sea. It was fortified in 103 BC and Herod built a palace and more fortifications as a potential refuge against a Jewish revolt.
In AD 66 a small band of Jews revolted and captured Masada. The Romans sent 8000 soldiers and set up eight camps at the base of Masada. Over a period of three years the Romans built an earthen ramp up to the fortress walls and prepared to breach the fortress. Rather than allow their families to be captured and put into slavery the men burned their homes and chose 10 men by lots who killed everyone and then nine of the ten were killed by the final zealot who killed himself! It has become Israel’s symbol for a “they’ll never take us alive” attitude and the term ‘Masada complex’ is a part of modern-day Israeli parlance! We rode the cable car to the top instead of walking up the ‘snake path’. Avi toured us around the fortress including Herod’s Palace, the Synagogue , cisterns and a 2000-year old bathroom! It was very interesting and the views of the Dead Sea from Masada were awesome.
After leaving Masada we stopped for another bland cafeteria lunch (another 100 shekels) before continuing to Ein Gedi Beach for a ‘float’ on the Dead Sea (the lowest point on earth at 420 m below Sea Level). We declined since I had already enjoyed that experience after running the Dead Sea Marathon in Jordan last year. Nicole and I sat and enjoyed a beer while some of our companions floated and rolled in the Dead Sea Mud. Then we drove back across the Judean desert and mountains to Jerusalem. As the bus climbed up into Jerusalem traffic was slowed by a security checkpoint and the driver rode the clutch and almost burned it out. It was smoking and smelling badly and the bus limped through the checkpoint and pulled over to the side of the road – next to the border/wall of the West Bank! The ‘ugly’ 20-ft wall was not completed at that point. The wall/border was a chain link fence with barbed wire and on the other side a group of Palestinian youths were throwing rocks at the cars. They never bothered with our bus but it was the one time during the trip that I felt nervous and was glad when the clutch cooled down and we were able to continue to our hotel.
Our hotel was located in West Jerusalem near the Central Bus Terminal. Although there was a shopping mall next door and the bus terminal (with lots of fast food kiosks)it was not a good location. There was only one restaurant in the area other than the hotel that only had the usual bland (expensive) buffet dinner. We were quickly introduced to security measures in Jerusalem. It was necessary to pass through a security check to get into any major building – hotel, shopping mall, super market, restaurant, bus terminal, museums, public buildings and most tourist sites! The check can be as simple as a security guard with a wand and check your bags to the same security used at airports! What a pain in the ass! I don’t know how the locals can stand it - but as inconvenient and annoying as it was it helped to make us feel safer!
I had planned to run the next morning but at 6 am it was too friggin COLD (mid 30s), too dark and too hilly! But the real reason I didn’t run was because I was concerned about running into a wrong neighborhood and finding myself in trouble? I easily convinced myself that my legs would appreciate a sabbatical or rest until I returned home! In two days I only saw two people jogging in Jerusalem?
The first day of touring in Jerusalem was the least hectic. We started with a visit to the Israel Museum that included the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept. There is a huge scale model of Jerusalem as it was in AD 66 which Avi used to describe the layout of the city and what we would see the next day. Close to the Museum is the Knesset – the home of the Israeli Parliament. Next we visited the Hadassa Medical Centre to view the twelve stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall for the Synagogue. Each window depicts one of the tribes of Israel. Then it was on to Yad Vashem or Holocaust Museum.
It contained many photos, videos and artifacts from the Holocaust but we had visited the Death camps in Auschwitz, Poland that were much more graphic and shocking. However I noticed that there were many teary eyes and people crying as I walked through the museum.
After lunch we drove to the West Bank and Bethlehem. The first thing we saw was the massive, ugly 20-ft walls separating Jerusalem and Israel from the West Bank. (You have probably seen them on TV?)
We had to leave the bus , walk through an entrance in the Wall, pass security and join another bus and guide in Bethlehem since the city is in Palestinian territory and control. We drove through Bethlehem to the Church of Nativity. We entered through the Door of Humility (must have been short people?) into a Greek Orthodox Church. We were quickly educated in the hierarchy of religious sites. Three or four religions or faiths share every religious site in the Holy Land. The Greek Orthodox Church enjoys the dominant position and location (usually right over a religious site) because the Turks gave them that position/control several centuries ago when they controlled the Holy Land. The Catholic Church usually holds the second best location followed by the Armenian Orthodox and Lutheran churches. There is a lot of dispute about control and Avi explained that only a few weeks ago riots and fights broke out in Manger Square between the various factions. Anyone want to bet that it is all about the huge amounts of money spent by Pilgrims??? Anyways back to the tour. We descended steps below the Greek Orthodox Church into caves to visit the Grotto of Nativity – the spot where Jesus was born. A few feet away is the Grotto of the Manger where his crib was kept. Well blow my mind – my Sunday school teacher and Christian teachings always depict the manger as a stable with animals?
St Catherine’s Church, built next to and attached to the Church of Nativity is where the Christmas Eve broadcasts originate.
We returned to the Wall and left Bethlehem. That evening Avi offered to take us on an optional (read more money) night tour of Jerusalem to see the Old City and tourist sites lit up. It was interesting but friggin cold! We had not packed for weather that cold and had to layer several T-shirts under a light spring jacket. Each time we stopped we would get out, look, and run back to the bus to warm up. Other than seeing the main tourist/religious sites lit up the best part of the tour was a walking tour on the pedestrian mall on Ben Yehuda St in the city centre. That mall/area contained many shops, bars and restaurants- what we had been missing and looking for in the area where our hotel was located! We were definitely going back there for our last night in town!
Wed was the final day in Jerusalem and the final and most hectic day of our tour. We started by entering through security at the Dung Gate and visiting the Western or ‘Wailing’ Wall. Then we had to pass though another set of security to gain access to Haram Ash-Sharif or Temple Mount. This is one of the most religious –and disputed- sites in the world. The Jews consider the large slab of rock protruding from Mt Moriah as the foundation stone of the world. It was here that God gathered earth to form Adam , Abraham nearly sacrificed his own son Isaac and where Solomon built the First temple and placed the Ark of the Covenant. For Muslims this is the place where Mohammed ascended to heaven to join Allah and is Islam’s 3rd holiest site! Temple Mount is located in the Muslim section of Jerusalem and is controlled by the Muslims. The Dome of the Rock that is the symbol of the city covers the slab of stone sacred to both the Muslim and Jewish faiths. We exited Temple Mount through the Gate of the Cotton Merchants into the souqs of the Arab Quarter. Avi guided us through the souqs to Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows) – the route that Jesus is believed to have taken from where he was pronounced guilty to carry his cross to Calvary. There are 14 stations along the route dedicated to ‘holy’ events/places such as where was received the cross –where he fell for the first time, etc. The last five stations are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre built over the sites where he was nailed to the cross, crucified and the final station is the Tomb of Jesus.
Many of the sites had churches of one or more faiths built over or on them. It became confusing by the end of Via Dolorosa what we had actually visited and seen?
We left the Old City and drove to Mt Zion to visit the Tomb of King David, the Room of the Last Supper and Dormition Abbey on the site where Virgin Mary died. By that time we were totally confused by the many, many religious sites or churches for almost any event. About the only site/church we did not see was one dedicated to where Jesus took a Holy crap??? Sorry – give me a break - but that is the way I felt! But we still weren’t finished. On to the Mount of Olives to visit the Church of All Nations and the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus was arrested. The garden still contains olive trees over 2000 years old. The final stop was the Tomb of Virgin Mary. Once again I was confused because I swear we had already visited two other places where Virgin Mary was buried! I needed a drink and time to sort out this confusion! The Mount of Olives also provided fantastic views of the Old city – especially the East Wall and the Golden gate. The Muslims sealed the Golden Gate in the 7th Century to prevent the Jewish Messiah from entering Haram! Kind of makes you wonder what they were smoking back in those days?
Thankfully Avi returned us to our hotel to pack and get ready for the trip home. Since we had a very late flight we took a taxi to Ben Yehuda St to stroll along the pedestrian mall, purchase some last minute souvenirs/gifts and enjoy a farewell dinner. We ate at El Gaucho, an Argentinean restaurant that serves Argentinean beef. It was the best meal we ate in Israel!
After touring both Jordan and Israel and traveling up and down both sides of the Dead Sea and observing the barren , desolate land of that region I now understand why it is called “The Promise(d) Land”! -------- “I promise never to go back”!!!
Now that we are back home I am trying to ramp up my training miles to make up for the miles lost during my sabbatical in Jerusalem and also lose the three pounds I gained. I will use the Miami Marathon this weekend as a long training run and final tune-up for my 100th country in Tahiti in Feb.
Stay tuned!
ISRAEL
1/05 – 1/15/09
Part 2
Now where did we leave off? Oh yeah! I had finished the Tiberias Marathon and we were ready to begin a one-week tour of Israel. I had always wanted to visit Israel with its many historical and biblical sites. When registering for the marathon I researched extensively on the Net for tours. The first thing I discovered was that most tours offered the same itinerary and all the tours were expensive! Another problem was that most tours started in Tel Aviv on Sun and ended there one week later. That meant going back to Tel Aviv for a few days and extending the trip? However I found a tour agency that agreed to let us join the end of one tour as it passed through Tiberias on Fri after the race and join a new tour on Sun in Tel Aviv. We waited for our tour guide to pick us up at our hotel in Tiberias on Fri morning.
But first before I begin the stories (or ‘fairy tales’) of our tour I must state this disclaimer: my stories/tales are my recollection of the stories/tales related to us by our tour guides which were supposedly based on historical facts and the bible! I accept no responsibility for the accuracy or truth of these tales! Let us begin. Also I suggest that to make it easier to understand and follow our tour that you print this report and follow the photos posted on my photo website.
Our guide, Ezra, picked us up at 8 am and we joined three English-speaking couples (Wales, NZ and Australia) for a short drive along the Sea of Galilee to Capernaum. According to Christian belief the village of Capernaum was the home base of Jesus during the most influential period of his Galilean ministry. He preached at the synagogue and healed the sick including Peter’s stepmother. He stayed in St Peter’s house. Then we continued along the Sea of Galilee to the Mount of Beatitudes where Jesus preached to his disciples in his Sermon on the Mount. We continued into Northern Israel to the ancient city of Safed founded in the 2nd Century BC. The labyrinth of cobbled streets is lined with medieval synagogues and an artist’s colony.
From Safed we drove through the Hula Valley and across the Jordan River into the Golan Heights. As we climbed the Golan Heights Ezra pointed out the mine fields on both sides of the road. Instead of spending time and money to clear the mines the Israeli government allows the farmers to graze their cattle in the mine fields. If a cow steps on a mine there is instant, cheap hamburger available! We stopped in Katzrin, a new Jewish settlement in the Golan Heights, for lunch. It looks much like a new American town with wide streets, bungalows, etc. The town and the locals go out of their way to provide tourists with publicity and information about how much they have accomplished in the Golan Heights and fervently state that they will not move if Israel gives the Golan Heights back to Syria in a peace accord! After lunch we continued farther north into the Golan Heights to visit a former Syrian fortification near Nimrod on the Syrian border. It was cold standing on top of that mountain looking down into Syria! We then drove west back through the Hula Valley to the Banias Nature Reserve that is one of the sources of the Jordan River. Ezra pointed out that the six-day war with Syria was all about controlling the water from the Jordan River and Israel will never give up that control! We had hoped to visit a waterfall but the guards were locking up the gate at 3 pm to make an early escape for Shabbat (sunset Fri to sunset Sat). So we drove on to Kfar Giladi near the Lebanon border where we stayed one night at a kibbutz. Ezra advised us not to leave the compound of the Kibbutz since we were so close to Lebanon. He warned us NOT to climb the mountain behind the kibbutz because Lebanon was on the other side! We obeyed and went to the bar in the kibbutz. I wanted to do a training run on Sat morning but decided my legs needed an extra day’s rest ( read – chicken or smart – but I wasn’t running that close to the border with the risk of rockets flying).
After breakfast we drove south and west along the Lebanon border to the Mediterranean Sea. This region contains a lot of orchards and vegetable farms. We stopped in the ancient city of Akko – more than 5,000 years old. It has a natural port that was captured and used by the Crusaders in the 11th Century and it has changed hands many times. There are ruins dating back before the Crusaders but fortifications built by the Crusaders are still intact and original. We visited Crusader City and Knight’s Hall and then strolled through the Arab market to the Port passing the El Jazzar Mosque and the Khan El Omdan. I really liked Akko and suggest that you allocate at least 2 days to visit the city. Our visit lasted three hours before we left and continued south to Haifa. Since it was Shabbat not much was open and we enjoyed a falafel –pita bread stuffed with spicy meat and vegetables – at a local fast food stand. It was strange but no matter where we ate lunch – at a fast food stand, restaurant or cafeteria – it always seemed to cost 100 NIS (shekels) ($25 US) and dinner cost 200 to 300 NIS? Nothing was cheap in Israel! And most of the food/meals sucked! Very little variety or taste!
After lunch we visited the Baha’i Gardens on Mt Carmel dedicated to Baha’ullah, the founder of the faith. We continued south to Caesarea that dates back to the 4th century BC. Herod built a city and his Palace there in 22 BC. And the crusaders rebuilt the city in the 11th Century. We visited the Hippodrome, Herod’s Palace and a restored Amphitheatre that is now used for concerts. We again continued south along the Sea to Tel Aviv and stopped in Old Jaffa – a port city that offers fantastic views of Tel Aviv. We visited the market and strolled along the cobbled streets of the old city and over the Wishing Bridge. It is rumored that if you touch your zodiac sign to the rail while looking towards the Sea and make a wish it will come true? Ezra then dropped us off at our hotel in Tel Aviv and we bid farewell to our fellow tourists who had finished their tour.
Sun was a free day in Tel Aviv for Nicole and me as we waited for the next tour group to arrive and the tour to start on Mon. On sun I enjoyed a pleasant 12-mile run along the Sea in Tel Aviv and discovered a network of trails/paths that allowed runners/bikers to go more than 100 Kms without having to worry about traffic. As I was running I shouted my normal “good morning” to all runners/walkers/bikers that I met. They looked at me like I was crazy? Israelis are not very friendly! There are not a lot of tourist sites in Tel Aviv so we did a self-guided walking tour through the Yemenite Quarter that took us through Carmel Market and along Rothschild Blvd past Independence Hall and the Haganah Museum. It finished along Sheinken St, one of the principal shopping areas of Tel Aviv.
On Mon morning we joined 12 new tourists and tour guide Avi for the start of the next tour. We experienced the first minor change in the itinerary caused by the war/problems in Gaza. The tour was supposed to drive south along the Sea to Ashkelon and then head west to the Dead Sea. However Ashkelon is ‘very’ close to Gaza and the tour agency considered the city and highway unsafe. Good thing because Hamas fired 15 rockets into Ashkelon that day! There were no objections or disappointment expressed by the passengers as we headed directly west from Tel Aviv via Jerusalem and Jericho to the Dead Sea. At Beit Ha’arava we turned south along the Dead Sea. We made a brief stop for an obligatory factory tour – only this was one of the few times it was welcomed. It was the Ahava factory that manufactures (expensive) cosmetics from minerals in the Dead Sea that are therapeutic for the skin. Nicole uses the product and surprisingly the factory prices were 50% less than US prices. I told her to load up because it was probably the only bargain we would find in Israel! We continued on to Masada.
Masada is a historic site that I have wanted to visit since seeing the movie twenty years ago (Peter O’Toole). Masada is a desert mesa that rises high and alone above the Dead Sea. It was fortified in 103 BC and Herod built a palace and more fortifications as a potential refuge against a Jewish revolt.
In AD 66 a small band of Jews revolted and captured Masada. The Romans sent 8000 soldiers and set up eight camps at the base of Masada. Over a period of three years the Romans built an earthen ramp up to the fortress walls and prepared to breach the fortress. Rather than allow their families to be captured and put into slavery the men burned their homes and chose 10 men by lots who killed everyone and then nine of the ten were killed by the final zealot who killed himself! It has become Israel’s symbol for a “they’ll never take us alive” attitude and the term ‘Masada complex’ is a part of modern-day Israeli parlance! We rode the cable car to the top instead of walking up the ‘snake path’. Avi toured us around the fortress including Herod’s Palace, the Synagogue , cisterns and a 2000-year old bathroom! It was very interesting and the views of the Dead Sea from Masada were awesome.
After leaving Masada we stopped for another bland cafeteria lunch (another 100 shekels) before continuing to Ein Gedi Beach for a ‘float’ on the Dead Sea (the lowest point on earth at 420 m below Sea Level). We declined since I had already enjoyed that experience after running the Dead Sea Marathon in Jordan last year. Nicole and I sat and enjoyed a beer while some of our companions floated and rolled in the Dead Sea Mud. Then we drove back across the Judean desert and mountains to Jerusalem. As the bus climbed up into Jerusalem traffic was slowed by a security checkpoint and the driver rode the clutch and almost burned it out. It was smoking and smelling badly and the bus limped through the checkpoint and pulled over to the side of the road – next to the border/wall of the West Bank! The ‘ugly’ 20-ft wall was not completed at that point. The wall/border was a chain link fence with barbed wire and on the other side a group of Palestinian youths were throwing rocks at the cars. They never bothered with our bus but it was the one time during the trip that I felt nervous and was glad when the clutch cooled down and we were able to continue to our hotel.
Our hotel was located in West Jerusalem near the Central Bus Terminal. Although there was a shopping mall next door and the bus terminal (with lots of fast food kiosks)it was not a good location. There was only one restaurant in the area other than the hotel that only had the usual bland (expensive) buffet dinner. We were quickly introduced to security measures in Jerusalem. It was necessary to pass through a security check to get into any major building – hotel, shopping mall, super market, restaurant, bus terminal, museums, public buildings and most tourist sites! The check can be as simple as a security guard with a wand and check your bags to the same security used at airports! What a pain in the ass! I don’t know how the locals can stand it - but as inconvenient and annoying as it was it helped to make us feel safer!
I had planned to run the next morning but at 6 am it was too friggin COLD (mid 30s), too dark and too hilly! But the real reason I didn’t run was because I was concerned about running into a wrong neighborhood and finding myself in trouble? I easily convinced myself that my legs would appreciate a sabbatical or rest until I returned home! In two days I only saw two people jogging in Jerusalem?
The first day of touring in Jerusalem was the least hectic. We started with a visit to the Israel Museum that included the Shrine of the Book where the Dead Sea Scrolls are kept. There is a huge scale model of Jerusalem as it was in AD 66 which Avi used to describe the layout of the city and what we would see the next day. Close to the Museum is the Knesset – the home of the Israeli Parliament. Next we visited the Hadassa Medical Centre to view the twelve stained glass windows created by Marc Chagall for the Synagogue. Each window depicts one of the tribes of Israel. Then it was on to Yad Vashem or Holocaust Museum.
It contained many photos, videos and artifacts from the Holocaust but we had visited the Death camps in Auschwitz, Poland that were much more graphic and shocking. However I noticed that there were many teary eyes and people crying as I walked through the museum.
After lunch we drove to the West Bank and Bethlehem. The first thing we saw was the massive, ugly 20-ft walls separating Jerusalem and Israel from the West Bank. (You have probably seen them on TV?)
We had to leave the bus , walk through an entrance in the Wall, pass security and join another bus and guide in Bethlehem since the city is in Palestinian territory and control. We drove through Bethlehem to the Church of Nativity. We entered through the Door of Humility (must have been short people?) into a Greek Orthodox Church. We were quickly educated in the hierarchy of religious sites. Three or four religions or faiths share every religious site in the Holy Land. The Greek Orthodox Church enjoys the dominant position and location (usually right over a religious site) because the Turks gave them that position/control several centuries ago when they controlled the Holy Land. The Catholic Church usually holds the second best location followed by the Armenian Orthodox and Lutheran churches. There is a lot of dispute about control and Avi explained that only a few weeks ago riots and fights broke out in Manger Square between the various factions. Anyone want to bet that it is all about the huge amounts of money spent by Pilgrims??? Anyways back to the tour. We descended steps below the Greek Orthodox Church into caves to visit the Grotto of Nativity – the spot where Jesus was born. A few feet away is the Grotto of the Manger where his crib was kept. Well blow my mind – my Sunday school teacher and Christian teachings always depict the manger as a stable with animals?
St Catherine’s Church, built next to and attached to the Church of Nativity is where the Christmas Eve broadcasts originate.
We returned to the Wall and left Bethlehem. That evening Avi offered to take us on an optional (read more money) night tour of Jerusalem to see the Old City and tourist sites lit up. It was interesting but friggin cold! We had not packed for weather that cold and had to layer several T-shirts under a light spring jacket. Each time we stopped we would get out, look, and run back to the bus to warm up. Other than seeing the main tourist/religious sites lit up the best part of the tour was a walking tour on the pedestrian mall on Ben Yehuda St in the city centre. That mall/area contained many shops, bars and restaurants- what we had been missing and looking for in the area where our hotel was located! We were definitely going back there for our last night in town!
Wed was the final day in Jerusalem and the final and most hectic day of our tour. We started by entering through security at the Dung Gate and visiting the Western or ‘Wailing’ Wall. Then we had to pass though another set of security to gain access to Haram Ash-Sharif or Temple Mount. This is one of the most religious –and disputed- sites in the world. The Jews consider the large slab of rock protruding from Mt Moriah as the foundation stone of the world. It was here that God gathered earth to form Adam , Abraham nearly sacrificed his own son Isaac and where Solomon built the First temple and placed the Ark of the Covenant. For Muslims this is the place where Mohammed ascended to heaven to join Allah and is Islam’s 3rd holiest site! Temple Mount is located in the Muslim section of Jerusalem and is controlled by the Muslims. The Dome of the Rock that is the symbol of the city covers the slab of stone sacred to both the Muslim and Jewish faiths. We exited Temple Mount through the Gate of the Cotton Merchants into the souqs of the Arab Quarter. Avi guided us through the souqs to Via Dolorosa (Way of Sorrows) – the route that Jesus is believed to have taken from where he was pronounced guilty to carry his cross to Calvary. There are 14 stations along the route dedicated to ‘holy’ events/places such as where was received the cross –where he fell for the first time, etc. The last five stations are inside the Church of the Holy Sepulchre built over the sites where he was nailed to the cross, crucified and the final station is the Tomb of Jesus.
Many of the sites had churches of one or more faiths built over or on them. It became confusing by the end of Via Dolorosa what we had actually visited and seen?
We left the Old City and drove to Mt Zion to visit the Tomb of King David, the Room of the Last Supper and Dormition Abbey on the site where Virgin Mary died. By that time we were totally confused by the many, many religious sites or churches for almost any event. About the only site/church we did not see was one dedicated to where Jesus took a Holy crap??? Sorry – give me a break - but that is the way I felt! But we still weren’t finished. On to the Mount of Olives to visit the Church of All Nations and the Garden of Gethsemane where Jesus was arrested. The garden still contains olive trees over 2000 years old. The final stop was the Tomb of Virgin Mary. Once again I was confused because I swear we had already visited two other places where Virgin Mary was buried! I needed a drink and time to sort out this confusion! The Mount of Olives also provided fantastic views of the Old city – especially the East Wall and the Golden gate. The Muslims sealed the Golden Gate in the 7th Century to prevent the Jewish Messiah from entering Haram! Kind of makes you wonder what they were smoking back in those days?
Thankfully Avi returned us to our hotel to pack and get ready for the trip home. Since we had a very late flight we took a taxi to Ben Yehuda St to stroll along the pedestrian mall, purchase some last minute souvenirs/gifts and enjoy a farewell dinner. We ate at El Gaucho, an Argentinean restaurant that serves Argentinean beef. It was the best meal we ate in Israel!
After touring both Jordan and Israel and traveling up and down both sides of the Dead Sea and observing the barren , desolate land of that region I now understand why it is called “The Promise(d) Land”! -------- “I promise never to go back”!!!
Now that we are back home I am trying to ramp up my training miles to make up for the miles lost during my sabbatical in Jerusalem and also lose the three pounds I gained. I will use the Miami Marathon this weekend as a long training run and final tune-up for my 100th country in Tahiti in Feb.
Stay tuned!
Saturday, January 17, 2009
TR - Israel
TRIP REPORT
ISRAEL
1/05 – 1/15/09
Part 1
Race Results:
Tiberias Marathon
Tiberias, Israel
Thu, Jan 8/09
Marathon # 314 – Country # 99
3:44:39 – 4 AG
NINE down – ONE to go! Country # 99 (tied the World Record)!
This marathon and country were included in a list I prepared at the beginning of 2008 because I wanted to find English-speaking countries for #99 and #100! At the time all was peaceful in Israel!
Imagine my surprise when war broke out a few weeks before the race? I contacted the tour company to ask if the war in Gaza would affect the marathon and tour plans. They said “NO” and would make any changes necessary for safety! The Sports Manager and I decided to go because the marathon and tour were not near Gaza and there was no way to substitute another race/country before #100 planned in Feb! Many of our family and friends expressed concern and advice not to go but I responded that “Maddog was faster than a speeding bullet”! Thus we departed for the long flight to Tel Aviv.
We arrived in TLV late afternoon on Tue. And quickly received surprise # 2! Very few people in Israel speak English and all signs/information are in Hebrew? I had made a false assumption that their close ties with the US would mean most would speak English. Wrong!!! We had to find our own way to Tiberias. The guide book stated that it was necessary to take a bus from the airport to the Central Bus Terminal in TLV to catch an express bus to Tiberias. What it did not inform us however was that the buses were local – even the ‘express’ bus! It was an interesting trip since it was the end of the work day and soldiers were getting on/off the buses at various locations – and carrying their rifles and sub-machine guns! By law they must carry their guns at all times. It seemed strange but we felt very safe on the bus. Other than that we did not see any signs of the war/problems in Gaza – except for a dumb bus driver who listened to the news on the radio complete with the sounds of shooting/war from Gaza?
Shortly after we arrived at the hotel in Tiberias we met up with two friends/fellow members of the 100 Marathon Club UK. Roger and Peter had also planned this trip/marathon a long time ago to join me for #99 and were not about to change their plans for a ‘little’ problem in Gaza! We agreed to meet for breakfast and tour the city in the morning. Tiberias is located on the western shores of the Sea of Galilee. It is one of the four holy cities of Judaism and also a tacky holiday resort. There were not a lot of tourist sites to visit but we did stroll past the Greek Monastery and Leaning Tower, El Bachri Mosque and the southern Wall. Then we strolled along the Allon Promenade to the Sea Level Measurement – a visual display of the current sea level of the Sea of Galilee (213 m below sea level). We then headed to race registration to pick up my race packet.
I was concerned because the web site for the race was poorly organized/managed and the race staff refused to respond to emails. All of us were forced to ask the tour agency to register us for the race because of problems with the website. I had emailed several times to request Bib # 99 with the obvious explanation but received no response. I even had the tour agency call the race committee with my request. Thus I was not surprised when I learned that my race number was NOT # 99! I asked to speak to the race director and his excuse was that I had asked for two race numbers (99 & 100) and they could only give me # 100? I was pissed but it was too late to fix the problem! And later that day when we went to the pasta dinner they wouldn’t let us in? Roger had specifically asked what coupon or ticket in our packet was required for the pasta dinner but when we presented that coupon they informed us that we needed a different coupon? By that time I was so frustrated and annoyed with the incompetence and uncaring attitude of the race organization that I didn’t even care if I ran the race! I just wanted to run/finish the race to count # 99 and get out of there! Fortunately our hotel package for the race included meals so we returned to the hotel for a much better meal that we probably would have gotten at the race dinner.
Thursday was “M’ Day! The race started at 9 am. There were 700 runners in the marathon. The weather was sunny with temps in the high 40s F. I had a special T-shirt printed for the race that read “Country # 99” on the front and “John’s 99th Country” on the back. That t-shirt solicited some comments and conversations with a few runners before and during the race but very few runners spoke English? Roger and I have always been closely matched and competitive and although neither of us would admit it we intended to beat each other as usual. I decided to go out at a 5:20/km (8:30/mile) pace since we both felt that a 3:45 finish would be the best either could do (in our current shape)and that time would hopefully be competitive in the race?
The race started in the center of town and comprised a 21 Km loop south and then north to Ein Gev on the east side of the Sea of Galilee before returning to Tiberias. Fortunately the race and course were better organized/managed than the pre-race events! There were distance markers every Km that helped to monitor/manage my pace and water stations every 3 Km. The two lane highway was closed to traffic and there was excellent police control at intersections. I passed 5 km in 26:15, slowed a wee bit up a long, steep hill at 8 Km and reached 10 Km in 52:50. I had left Roger behind but knew he was following me. I reached 16 Km in 1:24:45 as the lead pack of Kenyans blew by me on the return loop (26 Km). The winner finished in 2:08 so it was a fast race! I passed the turn-around at the Half in 1:51:47 – almost right on pace! I didn’t think I would be able to run the 2nd half that fast but I still felt good and figured I would try to hold that pace as long as possible. I met Roger 2 minutes later which meant I had a 4-minute lead but I knew that he would come after me in the 2nd Half! I couldn’t slow down! I passed 25 Km in 2:12:28 and later learned it was around that time when Muslim extremists in Lebanon fired five rockets into Northern Israel about 10 Km north of the marathon course. I was so focused that I never heard a thing but Roger later said that he and the pack he was running with heard explosions and a few of the local runners commented “ That is not good”!
I reached 32 Km in 2:49:32 – I had 55 minutes to run the last 10 Km. I thought about trying to push the pace harder but wisely decided to wait till 35 Km before making any change to my pace. Good thing because when I passed 34 Km in 3:00:41 my split had slowed to 5:36 and I was starting to tire! It was time to summon Maddog because I knew he could accept the level of pain necessary to push the pace back below 5:20! We started playing the old mind game – “just run the next Km in 5:20 and we will re-evaluate”. It is much easier to lie and fool yourself to accept pain for one more Km than knowing that you have to do it for 8 Km! At the end of each Km you just continue the lie for the next Km! I passed 40 Km in 3:32:58 and a split of 5:26. But I was hurting and the pain level was high! Only when I passed 41 Km in 3:38:18 was I confident that a sub-3:45 finish was in the bag because I was confident that Maddog could push the pace for the final Km on willpower alone! I crossed the finish line in 3:44:39!
As I walked around the finish area trying to recover Roger finished in 3:48. He had tried to catch me as expected but just couldn’t make up the 4-minute lead I had at the Half. We figured Peter would finish close to 6 hours so we decided to go back to the hotel for a shower and return to cheer him across the line. Ninety minutes later Maddog, Roger and the Sports Manager waited at the finish line as Peter finished in 5:44. We found race results posted at the host hotel to confirm that I had finished in 4th place and Roger in 6th place in our Age group. We were both pleased with our times and performances and acknowledged that both of us had run faster than expected because of our friendly competition. However we were a little disappointed/surprised that 3:45 wasn’t competitive? Third place finished one minute ahead of me – Damn! – I could have pushed the old bod for one more minute had I known?
Later the four of us enjoyed some celebration beers at a local restaurant before a farewell dinner. We planned to start a 7-day tour the next day while Roger and Peter returned to Tel Aviv to tour and visit relatives.
I will leave the story about the tour for Part 2 and conclude this section with a review/evaluation of the race. The pre-race organization and information is very poor. The race staff will not respond to emails and do not seem to care about the runners or any requests. The race and the marathon course were well organized and managed. I would recommend that you avoid this marathon unless your list requires the addition of a race in Israel!
Although I was not happy about the race committee’s failure to provide Bib # 99 for this special race I was happy to finish marathon # 314 and country # 99! That ties the World Record held for a long, long time by my good friend and mentor Wally Herman (83 years Young and still running). I still consider Wally to be the World Champion until somebody passes him. The Sports Manager and I will meet Wally and his lovely wife Marie for pasta dinner next weekend in Miami before Wally and I run the Miami Marathon. That will be my final tune-up before I run Country # 100 in Tahiti in Feb.
Stay tuned for Part 2 of this trip and the next adventure.
ISRAEL
1/05 – 1/15/09
Part 1
Race Results:
Tiberias Marathon
Tiberias, Israel
Thu, Jan 8/09
Marathon # 314 – Country # 99
3:44:39 – 4 AG
NINE down – ONE to go! Country # 99 (tied the World Record)!
This marathon and country were included in a list I prepared at the beginning of 2008 because I wanted to find English-speaking countries for #99 and #100! At the time all was peaceful in Israel!
Imagine my surprise when war broke out a few weeks before the race? I contacted the tour company to ask if the war in Gaza would affect the marathon and tour plans. They said “NO” and would make any changes necessary for safety! The Sports Manager and I decided to go because the marathon and tour were not near Gaza and there was no way to substitute another race/country before #100 planned in Feb! Many of our family and friends expressed concern and advice not to go but I responded that “Maddog was faster than a speeding bullet”! Thus we departed for the long flight to Tel Aviv.
We arrived in TLV late afternoon on Tue. And quickly received surprise # 2! Very few people in Israel speak English and all signs/information are in Hebrew? I had made a false assumption that their close ties with the US would mean most would speak English. Wrong!!! We had to find our own way to Tiberias. The guide book stated that it was necessary to take a bus from the airport to the Central Bus Terminal in TLV to catch an express bus to Tiberias. What it did not inform us however was that the buses were local – even the ‘express’ bus! It was an interesting trip since it was the end of the work day and soldiers were getting on/off the buses at various locations – and carrying their rifles and sub-machine guns! By law they must carry their guns at all times. It seemed strange but we felt very safe on the bus. Other than that we did not see any signs of the war/problems in Gaza – except for a dumb bus driver who listened to the news on the radio complete with the sounds of shooting/war from Gaza?
Shortly after we arrived at the hotel in Tiberias we met up with two friends/fellow members of the 100 Marathon Club UK. Roger and Peter had also planned this trip/marathon a long time ago to join me for #99 and were not about to change their plans for a ‘little’ problem in Gaza! We agreed to meet for breakfast and tour the city in the morning. Tiberias is located on the western shores of the Sea of Galilee. It is one of the four holy cities of Judaism and also a tacky holiday resort. There were not a lot of tourist sites to visit but we did stroll past the Greek Monastery and Leaning Tower, El Bachri Mosque and the southern Wall. Then we strolled along the Allon Promenade to the Sea Level Measurement – a visual display of the current sea level of the Sea of Galilee (213 m below sea level). We then headed to race registration to pick up my race packet.
I was concerned because the web site for the race was poorly organized/managed and the race staff refused to respond to emails. All of us were forced to ask the tour agency to register us for the race because of problems with the website. I had emailed several times to request Bib # 99 with the obvious explanation but received no response. I even had the tour agency call the race committee with my request. Thus I was not surprised when I learned that my race number was NOT # 99! I asked to speak to the race director and his excuse was that I had asked for two race numbers (99 & 100) and they could only give me # 100? I was pissed but it was too late to fix the problem! And later that day when we went to the pasta dinner they wouldn’t let us in? Roger had specifically asked what coupon or ticket in our packet was required for the pasta dinner but when we presented that coupon they informed us that we needed a different coupon? By that time I was so frustrated and annoyed with the incompetence and uncaring attitude of the race organization that I didn’t even care if I ran the race! I just wanted to run/finish the race to count # 99 and get out of there! Fortunately our hotel package for the race included meals so we returned to the hotel for a much better meal that we probably would have gotten at the race dinner.
Thursday was “M’ Day! The race started at 9 am. There were 700 runners in the marathon. The weather was sunny with temps in the high 40s F. I had a special T-shirt printed for the race that read “Country # 99” on the front and “John’s 99th Country” on the back. That t-shirt solicited some comments and conversations with a few runners before and during the race but very few runners spoke English? Roger and I have always been closely matched and competitive and although neither of us would admit it we intended to beat each other as usual. I decided to go out at a 5:20/km (8:30/mile) pace since we both felt that a 3:45 finish would be the best either could do (in our current shape)and that time would hopefully be competitive in the race?
The race started in the center of town and comprised a 21 Km loop south and then north to Ein Gev on the east side of the Sea of Galilee before returning to Tiberias. Fortunately the race and course were better organized/managed than the pre-race events! There were distance markers every Km that helped to monitor/manage my pace and water stations every 3 Km. The two lane highway was closed to traffic and there was excellent police control at intersections. I passed 5 km in 26:15, slowed a wee bit up a long, steep hill at 8 Km and reached 10 Km in 52:50. I had left Roger behind but knew he was following me. I reached 16 Km in 1:24:45 as the lead pack of Kenyans blew by me on the return loop (26 Km). The winner finished in 2:08 so it was a fast race! I passed the turn-around at the Half in 1:51:47 – almost right on pace! I didn’t think I would be able to run the 2nd half that fast but I still felt good and figured I would try to hold that pace as long as possible. I met Roger 2 minutes later which meant I had a 4-minute lead but I knew that he would come after me in the 2nd Half! I couldn’t slow down! I passed 25 Km in 2:12:28 and later learned it was around that time when Muslim extremists in Lebanon fired five rockets into Northern Israel about 10 Km north of the marathon course. I was so focused that I never heard a thing but Roger later said that he and the pack he was running with heard explosions and a few of the local runners commented “ That is not good”!
I reached 32 Km in 2:49:32 – I had 55 minutes to run the last 10 Km. I thought about trying to push the pace harder but wisely decided to wait till 35 Km before making any change to my pace. Good thing because when I passed 34 Km in 3:00:41 my split had slowed to 5:36 and I was starting to tire! It was time to summon Maddog because I knew he could accept the level of pain necessary to push the pace back below 5:20! We started playing the old mind game – “just run the next Km in 5:20 and we will re-evaluate”. It is much easier to lie and fool yourself to accept pain for one more Km than knowing that you have to do it for 8 Km! At the end of each Km you just continue the lie for the next Km! I passed 40 Km in 3:32:58 and a split of 5:26. But I was hurting and the pain level was high! Only when I passed 41 Km in 3:38:18 was I confident that a sub-3:45 finish was in the bag because I was confident that Maddog could push the pace for the final Km on willpower alone! I crossed the finish line in 3:44:39!
As I walked around the finish area trying to recover Roger finished in 3:48. He had tried to catch me as expected but just couldn’t make up the 4-minute lead I had at the Half. We figured Peter would finish close to 6 hours so we decided to go back to the hotel for a shower and return to cheer him across the line. Ninety minutes later Maddog, Roger and the Sports Manager waited at the finish line as Peter finished in 5:44. We found race results posted at the host hotel to confirm that I had finished in 4th place and Roger in 6th place in our Age group. We were both pleased with our times and performances and acknowledged that both of us had run faster than expected because of our friendly competition. However we were a little disappointed/surprised that 3:45 wasn’t competitive? Third place finished one minute ahead of me – Damn! – I could have pushed the old bod for one more minute had I known?
Later the four of us enjoyed some celebration beers at a local restaurant before a farewell dinner. We planned to start a 7-day tour the next day while Roger and Peter returned to Tel Aviv to tour and visit relatives.
I will leave the story about the tour for Part 2 and conclude this section with a review/evaluation of the race. The pre-race organization and information is very poor. The race staff will not respond to emails and do not seem to care about the runners or any requests. The race and the marathon course were well organized and managed. I would recommend that you avoid this marathon unless your list requires the addition of a race in Israel!
Although I was not happy about the race committee’s failure to provide Bib # 99 for this special race I was happy to finish marathon # 314 and country # 99! That ties the World Record held for a long, long time by my good friend and mentor Wally Herman (83 years Young and still running). I still consider Wally to be the World Champion until somebody passes him. The Sports Manager and I will meet Wally and his lovely wife Marie for pasta dinner next weekend in Miami before Wally and I run the Miami Marathon. That will be my final tune-up before I run Country # 100 in Tahiti in Feb.
Stay tuned for Part 2 of this trip and the next adventure.
Tuesday, December 23, 2008
TR - Taiwan
TRIP REPORT
TAIWAN
12/17 – 12/22/08
Race Results:
Taipei Marathon
Taipei, Taiwan
Sun, Dec 21/08
Marathon # 313 – Country # 98
3:56:57
Country # 98 – EIGHT down – TWO to go!
This marathon turned out to be a difficult one to get to and run! The difficulty/frustration started three years ago when I first scheduled it into my race calendar. That year I couldn’t get the necessary information and details from the web site or race director to finalize my travel plans? Last year the web site improved and I had actually booked my flights, etc. but had to postpone them at the last minute when the Sports Manager needed unexpected surgery to replace her hip. I just rescheduled my travel plans to 2008. However in early summer a friend informed me that the race organization had changed the date? Sure enough – he was correct. I was concerned and upset because the race is usually just before Christmas and travel is expensive and difficult to book for that time of year to Taiwan. Surprisingly I was able to reschedule my flights – but I was forced to book 1st Class seats using award miles. This turned out to be a blessing in the end!
The change in date also helped my goal in a big way because later in the year I confirmed that the Puerto Rico Marathon was scheduled for Dec 14 which allowed me to schedule both races into my calendar. It made for a tough travel schedule but I could run both races in 2008!
Unfortunately on the return flight from Puerto Rico I caught a cold bug. At first I thought it was only a minor sore throat but as I made my way across the Pacific on the 30-hr flights to Taiwan it blossomed into a severe head cold and congestion. I was glad that I had the 1st Class seats so I could sleep on that long journey. When I arrived in Taiwan at midnight Thu I was not feeling well - a raging headache and stuffed-up sinus. I woke early the next day, found the location for race registration and picked up my race packet. I was pleased that the race director had accommodated my request for Bib # 98! My next stop was a pharmacy where the pharmacist spoke some English and gave me some strange Chinese medicines and herbs to combat the cold. I desperately wanted to keep the congestion from moving into my chest! I then visited Taipei 101- the world’s (current) tallest building – to get a panoramic view of the city and learn the layout and directions of the major landmarks. By the time I came down I was feeling so sick that I returned to the hotel, took the medicine and immediately crashed! I woke groggily about 5 hours later and managed to eat a light dinner before crashing for another 12 hours!
I had booked a morning tour of the city so forced myself out of bed to tour the few major tourist sites:
The Palace National Museum (has more Chinese artifacts that the Chinese Museum in Beijing); the Martyr’s Shrine, Chiang Kai -Shek Memorial Hall; the Presidential Building; and the Chung Fu Temple. After the tour it was more medicine and crash immediately? Best damn sleeping tonic I ever had?
Six hours later I woke and contemplated my next move? I was very sick and groggy and considered just crawling under the covers and skipping dinner. But I remembered when I did that in Shanghai last year and suffered one of my worst races. So I forced myself to crawl out of bed to eat a pasta dinner. And then back into bed with more medicine and crashed for another 10 hours. When I woke at 5 am I did not want to get out of bed – I felt like SHIT! Thankfully the congestion had not moved deep into my chest and I could breathe. Besides I really didn’t have an option – I had to run and finish the marathon no matter how painful or how long it took!
I walked over to the start/finish line at City Hall. The weather was nice – temps in the low 60s. I was disappointed that I was not healthy so that I could make a strong attempt to run a fast time. The start area was a zoo – 3,000 runners in the marathon; 8,000 in the Half and another 16,000 in a 9 Km fun run – and we all started together! I had to climb over a fence to squeeze in with a pack of runners about 20 ft from the start line. The race started at 7 am. The course was so packed that we couldn’t veer or pass for the first 5 Km. There were supposed to be distance markers every Km but I missed the first five because of the crowds. Finally I saw the 6 Km marker – 32:16. The pack was moving me along faster than expected so I decided to stay with them. The first 15 Km of the course was through the city and past many of the tourist sites so it was enjoyable. At 16 Km the course entered an elevated freeway and stayed there for the next 23 KM – not very scenic or interesting! However the city had closed all the roads along the course so we didn’t have to worry about traffic or suck up exhaust fumes – much better than most Asian races!
At 17 Km (1:31:22) the lead pack of runners from Kenya (big prize money in the race) blew past us in the opposite direction – 28 Km for them! That meant we had an 11Km out-and-back loop on the elevated hwy. Fortunately the Half marathoners turned at 18 km and we finally had room to run and it was easier to get water at the stations. I passed the Half in 1:55:15 – faster than expected but the temps were increasing rapidly and I knew the 2nd Half would be slower. Around 25 Km my pack started to fade and surprisingly I still felt OK so I decided to push ahead and started to pass many runners succumbing to the heat. As we approached the exit off the freeway near 29 Km we had to dodge slower Half marathoners leaving the freeway and continue for another 10 Km loop on the elevated freeway. I don’t remember much after that because the wheels started to fall off? I passed 32Km in 2:57:16 but I was struggling and my splits had slowed to 6:00/Km (9:30/mile). I calculated that if I could hold a 6 min/Km pace I could finish under 4 hours! That became my sole goal/purpose in life (other than finishing ALIVE)! But my splits continued to slow so I summoned up Maddog! As expected he was able to focus so strongly that we blocked out the entire world – the lack of energy - the pain - and lowered the pace back to sub-6s! All I remember is reaching the exit off the freeway at 39 Km (3:38:59). Only then was I confident that a sub 4-hr finish was in the bag!
We left the elevated freeway and entered a long tunnel. We exited the tunnel at 41 Km (3:50:25). I had no idea where I was and just focused on following the runners ahead and pushing the pace for the final Km to get the ordeal over with! I crossed the finish line in 3:56:59. They must have made an announcement as I crossed the finish line because several local runners approached and asked if I would join them for photos. Of course I was obliged/pleased to do so and I got to meet and talk to a lot of nice people!
After collecting my warm-up bag I tried to confirm my official time and place but was disappointed that the results were still not available (the race used chips and electronic timing?).While waiting I met a Canuck in my AG (one of 10 Caucasians in the race) who finished in 3:45. We both gave up and left without any results! So I didn’t place 1st – and I didn’t expect to with my slow time. I am still disappointed that the results have not yet been posted on the NET!
As I walked back to the hotel along a route and streets that I had become familiar with I was surprised to see runners finishing the race? Then I passed Km marker 41! Unbelievable! It was on a street corner close to my hotel where I had eaten meals at a British Pub. I couldn’t believe that I had been so focused and so out-of-it at that point of the race that I didn’t even recognize where I was? And people wonder why I don’t respond when they wave and cheer for me along a course?
After a long hot shower I actually felt alive – the best I felt since arriving in Taiwan. I went for a stroll to find some hot/greasy food that my body craves after a race. By the time I ate my health was going downhill – FAST! I realized that the ‘false’ good feeling had been the result of residual endorphins and adrenaline from the race! It was back to the hotel – take more strange Chinese medicine and crash.
I can’t remember the last time I slept so many hours in so few days?
Fortunately I did feel better the next morning when it was time to leave for the airport. However that ‘better’ feeling faded away as I made the long 30-hr journey back home. Once again I was glad that I had booked 1st class seats. The trip would have been pure HELL back in coach! By the time I arrived home at midnight on Mon the cold had reached its peak. It was an ugly night with hot/cold sweats and vivid hallucinations that would be the envy of any LSD junkie!
We were supposed to leave for the West Coast on Wed to visit our kids but there are bad snow storms in WA/OR so we delayed our departure till Fri. Hopefully by then I will be healthy and ready to get back on a plane?
As I said in my field report the summary of this race was ‘Disappointment’! Disappointment that I had not been healthy because I believe I could have run a fast time (low 3:40s) on that course and weather. And disappointment that I did not get to see much of Taipei or Taiwan. But I am glad that it is over. And I am glad that this long/difficult/challenging quest is almost over! I can finally see the end of the tunnel.
I have three weeks to rest and get healthy for the next marathon/adventure where I will tie the World record in Israel.
Stay tuned!
Footnote: another disappointment - official time 3:56:57 and 13th place in AG!
TAIWAN
12/17 – 12/22/08
Race Results:
Taipei Marathon
Taipei, Taiwan
Sun, Dec 21/08
Marathon # 313 – Country # 98
3:56:57
Country # 98 – EIGHT down – TWO to go!
This marathon turned out to be a difficult one to get to and run! The difficulty/frustration started three years ago when I first scheduled it into my race calendar. That year I couldn’t get the necessary information and details from the web site or race director to finalize my travel plans? Last year the web site improved and I had actually booked my flights, etc. but had to postpone them at the last minute when the Sports Manager needed unexpected surgery to replace her hip. I just rescheduled my travel plans to 2008. However in early summer a friend informed me that the race organization had changed the date? Sure enough – he was correct. I was concerned and upset because the race is usually just before Christmas and travel is expensive and difficult to book for that time of year to Taiwan. Surprisingly I was able to reschedule my flights – but I was forced to book 1st Class seats using award miles. This turned out to be a blessing in the end!
The change in date also helped my goal in a big way because later in the year I confirmed that the Puerto Rico Marathon was scheduled for Dec 14 which allowed me to schedule both races into my calendar. It made for a tough travel schedule but I could run both races in 2008!
Unfortunately on the return flight from Puerto Rico I caught a cold bug. At first I thought it was only a minor sore throat but as I made my way across the Pacific on the 30-hr flights to Taiwan it blossomed into a severe head cold and congestion. I was glad that I had the 1st Class seats so I could sleep on that long journey. When I arrived in Taiwan at midnight Thu I was not feeling well - a raging headache and stuffed-up sinus. I woke early the next day, found the location for race registration and picked up my race packet. I was pleased that the race director had accommodated my request for Bib # 98! My next stop was a pharmacy where the pharmacist spoke some English and gave me some strange Chinese medicines and herbs to combat the cold. I desperately wanted to keep the congestion from moving into my chest! I then visited Taipei 101- the world’s (current) tallest building – to get a panoramic view of the city and learn the layout and directions of the major landmarks. By the time I came down I was feeling so sick that I returned to the hotel, took the medicine and immediately crashed! I woke groggily about 5 hours later and managed to eat a light dinner before crashing for another 12 hours!
I had booked a morning tour of the city so forced myself out of bed to tour the few major tourist sites:
The Palace National Museum (has more Chinese artifacts that the Chinese Museum in Beijing); the Martyr’s Shrine, Chiang Kai -Shek Memorial Hall; the Presidential Building; and the Chung Fu Temple. After the tour it was more medicine and crash immediately? Best damn sleeping tonic I ever had?
Six hours later I woke and contemplated my next move? I was very sick and groggy and considered just crawling under the covers and skipping dinner. But I remembered when I did that in Shanghai last year and suffered one of my worst races. So I forced myself to crawl out of bed to eat a pasta dinner. And then back into bed with more medicine and crashed for another 10 hours. When I woke at 5 am I did not want to get out of bed – I felt like SHIT! Thankfully the congestion had not moved deep into my chest and I could breathe. Besides I really didn’t have an option – I had to run and finish the marathon no matter how painful or how long it took!
I walked over to the start/finish line at City Hall. The weather was nice – temps in the low 60s. I was disappointed that I was not healthy so that I could make a strong attempt to run a fast time. The start area was a zoo – 3,000 runners in the marathon; 8,000 in the Half and another 16,000 in a 9 Km fun run – and we all started together! I had to climb over a fence to squeeze in with a pack of runners about 20 ft from the start line. The race started at 7 am. The course was so packed that we couldn’t veer or pass for the first 5 Km. There were supposed to be distance markers every Km but I missed the first five because of the crowds. Finally I saw the 6 Km marker – 32:16. The pack was moving me along faster than expected so I decided to stay with them. The first 15 Km of the course was through the city and past many of the tourist sites so it was enjoyable. At 16 Km the course entered an elevated freeway and stayed there for the next 23 KM – not very scenic or interesting! However the city had closed all the roads along the course so we didn’t have to worry about traffic or suck up exhaust fumes – much better than most Asian races!
At 17 Km (1:31:22) the lead pack of runners from Kenya (big prize money in the race) blew past us in the opposite direction – 28 Km for them! That meant we had an 11Km out-and-back loop on the elevated hwy. Fortunately the Half marathoners turned at 18 km and we finally had room to run and it was easier to get water at the stations. I passed the Half in 1:55:15 – faster than expected but the temps were increasing rapidly and I knew the 2nd Half would be slower. Around 25 Km my pack started to fade and surprisingly I still felt OK so I decided to push ahead and started to pass many runners succumbing to the heat. As we approached the exit off the freeway near 29 Km we had to dodge slower Half marathoners leaving the freeway and continue for another 10 Km loop on the elevated freeway. I don’t remember much after that because the wheels started to fall off? I passed 32Km in 2:57:16 but I was struggling and my splits had slowed to 6:00/Km (9:30/mile). I calculated that if I could hold a 6 min/Km pace I could finish under 4 hours! That became my sole goal/purpose in life (other than finishing ALIVE)! But my splits continued to slow so I summoned up Maddog! As expected he was able to focus so strongly that we blocked out the entire world – the lack of energy - the pain - and lowered the pace back to sub-6s! All I remember is reaching the exit off the freeway at 39 Km (3:38:59). Only then was I confident that a sub 4-hr finish was in the bag!
We left the elevated freeway and entered a long tunnel. We exited the tunnel at 41 Km (3:50:25). I had no idea where I was and just focused on following the runners ahead and pushing the pace for the final Km to get the ordeal over with! I crossed the finish line in 3:56:59. They must have made an announcement as I crossed the finish line because several local runners approached and asked if I would join them for photos. Of course I was obliged/pleased to do so and I got to meet and talk to a lot of nice people!
After collecting my warm-up bag I tried to confirm my official time and place but was disappointed that the results were still not available (the race used chips and electronic timing?).While waiting I met a Canuck in my AG (one of 10 Caucasians in the race) who finished in 3:45. We both gave up and left without any results! So I didn’t place 1st – and I didn’t expect to with my slow time. I am still disappointed that the results have not yet been posted on the NET!
As I walked back to the hotel along a route and streets that I had become familiar with I was surprised to see runners finishing the race? Then I passed Km marker 41! Unbelievable! It was on a street corner close to my hotel where I had eaten meals at a British Pub. I couldn’t believe that I had been so focused and so out-of-it at that point of the race that I didn’t even recognize where I was? And people wonder why I don’t respond when they wave and cheer for me along a course?
After a long hot shower I actually felt alive – the best I felt since arriving in Taiwan. I went for a stroll to find some hot/greasy food that my body craves after a race. By the time I ate my health was going downhill – FAST! I realized that the ‘false’ good feeling had been the result of residual endorphins and adrenaline from the race! It was back to the hotel – take more strange Chinese medicine and crash.
I can’t remember the last time I slept so many hours in so few days?
Fortunately I did feel better the next morning when it was time to leave for the airport. However that ‘better’ feeling faded away as I made the long 30-hr journey back home. Once again I was glad that I had booked 1st class seats. The trip would have been pure HELL back in coach! By the time I arrived home at midnight on Mon the cold had reached its peak. It was an ugly night with hot/cold sweats and vivid hallucinations that would be the envy of any LSD junkie!
We were supposed to leave for the West Coast on Wed to visit our kids but there are bad snow storms in WA/OR so we delayed our departure till Fri. Hopefully by then I will be healthy and ready to get back on a plane?
As I said in my field report the summary of this race was ‘Disappointment’! Disappointment that I had not been healthy because I believe I could have run a fast time (low 3:40s) on that course and weather. And disappointment that I did not get to see much of Taipei or Taiwan. But I am glad that it is over. And I am glad that this long/difficult/challenging quest is almost over! I can finally see the end of the tunnel.
I have three weeks to rest and get healthy for the next marathon/adventure where I will tie the World record in Israel.
Stay tuned!
Footnote: another disappointment - official time 3:56:57 and 13th place in AG!
Tuesday, December 16, 2008
TR Puerto Rico
TRIP REPORT
PUERTO RICO
12/13 - 12/15/08
Race Results
La Guadalupe Marathon
Ponce. Puerto Rico
Sun, Dec 14/08
Marathon # 312 – Country # 97
3:53:38 – 1 AG
Country # 97 – SEVEN down – THREE to go!
I had been trying (unsuccessfully) for the past few years to find a marathon in PR? My luck/search finally changed when I ran the St Croix Marathon on New Year’s Day. The race director was certain that there was a marathon in PR and agreed to use his contacts in the IAAF to find out where and when. It took him five months and a lot of work but eventually he did provide me with a contact in PR who I called immediately! Success! I was quickly routed to the race director who was also the Secretary of Sports and Recreation for the Municipality of Ponce. There is no advertising for the race – it is not listed in any race calendars – and there is no website! But there is a marathon (usually in Dec) and Nelson promised to call me in Sept when the date was confirmed.
I was nervous about the race because I plugged it into my race/marathon schedule to get me to 100 countries so it was important that it take place! Thankfully Nelson called me in Sept to confirm a date of Dec 14/08 and gave me some general info on hotels in the area. I booked my flights and continued my quest. As the date drew near I emailed Nelson to confirm the race was still on? Yes it was!
I flew into San Juan on Sat morning, rented a car and drove to the other side of the island. Ponce is located on the south side of PR on the Caribbean Sea. It quickly became apparent that this area is not a tourist destination and I was thankful that I had only booked a weekend trip! The only information I had on the race was the location and time of registration. As I said there is no information available on the Net? I found my hotel which fortunately was only a few miles from registration and the start/finish of the race in La Guancha Recreational Area. That was pure luck!!!
I found La Gauncha and registration and finally many of my questions were answered. The Marathon La Guadalupe is the only marathon in PR. It is organized and sponsored by the Municipality of Ponce. I was shocked to learn there was no entry fee and each runner received a race bib, T-shirt, finisher’s medal and certificate. After the race a breakfast was served and there were cash awards for the top 10 runners in both male/female! Now I understood why this marathon is a closely guarded secret! The city prefers to keep the marathon a ‘local’ event and does not advertise or encourage foreign participation since the taxpayers are paying the bill! However they were very courteous and hospitable to me – but then I was no threat to win prize money! There are no Age Group awards and it is not a fancy event but it is well organized and managed.
There was no formal information provided at registration – no course map, no race sheet, etc. I was required to pass a mandatory physical/medical check before they gave me my race bib - #97! Fortunately the race volunteers spoke some English and I was able to get the specific info I needed to show up at 4am for the start. I couldn’t find an Italian restaurant in Ponce so was forced to eat my pasta dinner at a Pizza hut – it was OK and cheap!
I made sure I was at the registration/finish area by 4 am because I still didn’t know much about the race? Luckily I met another runner from a Running Club in San Juan who spoke good English and he decided to adopt and help me? He was very kind and translated what was going on. Of course everything was in Spanish since I was the only English-speaking runner in the race! My new friend informed me that I was supposed to pick up my race T-shirt before the race and then busses would transport the runners to the start line about 1 Km from the finish line? He explained that the course was a 7-Km section of the highway from downtown Ponce to La Guancha. The city closed both sides of the hwy for 7 Km and we ran back and forth three times and finished near La Guancha Boardwalk.
I met several more runners from the San Juan Running Club as we waited for the start. There were about 200 runners in the race including the national male/female champions! The weather was hot as expected with temps in the mid 70s (F) at the 5 am start in the dark. My new friend was a waiter in San Juan and had not run a marathon for about five years but was confident that he could break 4 hrs? I told him that would probably be a challenge for me because of the heat and I had been suffering from leg cramps the past few weeks and did not want to risk an injury! I decided to go out at a 9-min/mile pace and see what happened?
As we started the race I recognized the course because I had driven that highway a few times. My friend pointed out that there were four overpasses or ‘hills’ on the 7-Km section which meant we would get to run each overpass/hill a total of six times! Oh Goody! The first and highest hill was around 2 Km.
We passed 5Km in 27:51. By then I was wishing I could lose my new friend. As kind as he was – he wouldn’t shut up – he was driving me nuts! At that point we caught up to a female runner from his Club and he introduced us. Carmen was in my Age Group – 63 years old – and running a smooth/easy sub 9-min pace –very impressive! In fact she decided to stay with us and at many times took the lead and we struggled to keep up with her! We passed 10 Km in 54:47 – ahead of pace. My legs felt OK so I figured I could stay with these two new friends? We passed 15 Km in 1:21:52 and Carmen pulled us through the Half in 1:55:23. Damn – that was fast for that heat. But the sun had just come up and I figured we would not be able to hold that pace through the 2nd Half?
As we headed back toward La Guancha on the 2nd leg of the 2nd loop my new friend started to struggle around 24 Km and told me that he needed to stop talking (oh Joy!) and focus on his pace. The winner lapped us at 25 Km and Carmen and I found ourselves alone? When I made the turn at 28 Km (2:33:32) Carmen started to fade and fall behind. I continued to push the pace by myself and passed 32Km in 2:56:09 and when I made the final turn around 34 Km (3:07:33) I noticed that Carmen had fallen about 1 Km behind. I was confident that a sub 4-hr marathon was in the bag and continued to hold the pace. I started to pass many runners who had succumbed to the heat and were walking/jogging. The reward of a sub 4-hr finish was enough incentive to keep the old legs churning although they began to tighten. I was pleased when I reached La Gauncha at 41Km (3:47:12) and turned into the park for the final 1 Km. I crossed the finish line in 3:53:38. My friend was waiting at the finish line to cheer me across – he had dropped out at 28 Km with leg cramps.
It felt good to finish a race under 4 hrs again! I waited around for the award ceremony but skipped the breakfast – I can’t eat for hours after racing! I believe I won my AG but must wait for the race director to confirm my place since they don’t track Age Groups in this race. They only give cash awards to the top 10 in each gender! I took some photos of the La Gauncha area – it is one of the nicer areas of Ponce. Then I returned to the hotel for a long hot shower to soothe/relax the legs and set out to visit the old historic section of the city. It wasn’t a long walking tour – a Cathedral, Park and a few museums. Most of the shops and restaurants were closed for Sunday? So I retreated back to the El Tuque area where my hotel was located to enjoy a great seafood dinner and sunset in a nice restaurant overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
I decided to leave early Mon morning to alleviate any concern about traffic delays back to San Juan – and if I arrived early I would have time to explore Old San Juan. That plan worked out well and I enjoyed a nice 2-hr stroll through Old San Juan and took some photos to share with my readers.
It was a quick trip – a good race and now I have one day to repack and leave for Taiwan. I am surprised that I found time to write a quick trip report. It will reduce my burden when I return from Taiwan.
Stay tuned!
PUERTO RICO
12/13 - 12/15/08
Race Results
La Guadalupe Marathon
Ponce. Puerto Rico
Sun, Dec 14/08
Marathon # 312 – Country # 97
3:53:38 – 1 AG
Country # 97 – SEVEN down – THREE to go!
I had been trying (unsuccessfully) for the past few years to find a marathon in PR? My luck/search finally changed when I ran the St Croix Marathon on New Year’s Day. The race director was certain that there was a marathon in PR and agreed to use his contacts in the IAAF to find out where and when. It took him five months and a lot of work but eventually he did provide me with a contact in PR who I called immediately! Success! I was quickly routed to the race director who was also the Secretary of Sports and Recreation for the Municipality of Ponce. There is no advertising for the race – it is not listed in any race calendars – and there is no website! But there is a marathon (usually in Dec) and Nelson promised to call me in Sept when the date was confirmed.
I was nervous about the race because I plugged it into my race/marathon schedule to get me to 100 countries so it was important that it take place! Thankfully Nelson called me in Sept to confirm a date of Dec 14/08 and gave me some general info on hotels in the area. I booked my flights and continued my quest. As the date drew near I emailed Nelson to confirm the race was still on? Yes it was!
I flew into San Juan on Sat morning, rented a car and drove to the other side of the island. Ponce is located on the south side of PR on the Caribbean Sea. It quickly became apparent that this area is not a tourist destination and I was thankful that I had only booked a weekend trip! The only information I had on the race was the location and time of registration. As I said there is no information available on the Net? I found my hotel which fortunately was only a few miles from registration and the start/finish of the race in La Guancha Recreational Area. That was pure luck!!!
I found La Gauncha and registration and finally many of my questions were answered. The Marathon La Guadalupe is the only marathon in PR. It is organized and sponsored by the Municipality of Ponce. I was shocked to learn there was no entry fee and each runner received a race bib, T-shirt, finisher’s medal and certificate. After the race a breakfast was served and there were cash awards for the top 10 runners in both male/female! Now I understood why this marathon is a closely guarded secret! The city prefers to keep the marathon a ‘local’ event and does not advertise or encourage foreign participation since the taxpayers are paying the bill! However they were very courteous and hospitable to me – but then I was no threat to win prize money! There are no Age Group awards and it is not a fancy event but it is well organized and managed.
There was no formal information provided at registration – no course map, no race sheet, etc. I was required to pass a mandatory physical/medical check before they gave me my race bib - #97! Fortunately the race volunteers spoke some English and I was able to get the specific info I needed to show up at 4am for the start. I couldn’t find an Italian restaurant in Ponce so was forced to eat my pasta dinner at a Pizza hut – it was OK and cheap!
I made sure I was at the registration/finish area by 4 am because I still didn’t know much about the race? Luckily I met another runner from a Running Club in San Juan who spoke good English and he decided to adopt and help me? He was very kind and translated what was going on. Of course everything was in Spanish since I was the only English-speaking runner in the race! My new friend informed me that I was supposed to pick up my race T-shirt before the race and then busses would transport the runners to the start line about 1 Km from the finish line? He explained that the course was a 7-Km section of the highway from downtown Ponce to La Guancha. The city closed both sides of the hwy for 7 Km and we ran back and forth three times and finished near La Guancha Boardwalk.
I met several more runners from the San Juan Running Club as we waited for the start. There were about 200 runners in the race including the national male/female champions! The weather was hot as expected with temps in the mid 70s (F) at the 5 am start in the dark. My new friend was a waiter in San Juan and had not run a marathon for about five years but was confident that he could break 4 hrs? I told him that would probably be a challenge for me because of the heat and I had been suffering from leg cramps the past few weeks and did not want to risk an injury! I decided to go out at a 9-min/mile pace and see what happened?
As we started the race I recognized the course because I had driven that highway a few times. My friend pointed out that there were four overpasses or ‘hills’ on the 7-Km section which meant we would get to run each overpass/hill a total of six times! Oh Goody! The first and highest hill was around 2 Km.
We passed 5Km in 27:51. By then I was wishing I could lose my new friend. As kind as he was – he wouldn’t shut up – he was driving me nuts! At that point we caught up to a female runner from his Club and he introduced us. Carmen was in my Age Group – 63 years old – and running a smooth/easy sub 9-min pace –very impressive! In fact she decided to stay with us and at many times took the lead and we struggled to keep up with her! We passed 10 Km in 54:47 – ahead of pace. My legs felt OK so I figured I could stay with these two new friends? We passed 15 Km in 1:21:52 and Carmen pulled us through the Half in 1:55:23. Damn – that was fast for that heat. But the sun had just come up and I figured we would not be able to hold that pace through the 2nd Half?
As we headed back toward La Guancha on the 2nd leg of the 2nd loop my new friend started to struggle around 24 Km and told me that he needed to stop talking (oh Joy!) and focus on his pace. The winner lapped us at 25 Km and Carmen and I found ourselves alone? When I made the turn at 28 Km (2:33:32) Carmen started to fade and fall behind. I continued to push the pace by myself and passed 32Km in 2:56:09 and when I made the final turn around 34 Km (3:07:33) I noticed that Carmen had fallen about 1 Km behind. I was confident that a sub 4-hr marathon was in the bag and continued to hold the pace. I started to pass many runners who had succumbed to the heat and were walking/jogging. The reward of a sub 4-hr finish was enough incentive to keep the old legs churning although they began to tighten. I was pleased when I reached La Gauncha at 41Km (3:47:12) and turned into the park for the final 1 Km. I crossed the finish line in 3:53:38. My friend was waiting at the finish line to cheer me across – he had dropped out at 28 Km with leg cramps.
It felt good to finish a race under 4 hrs again! I waited around for the award ceremony but skipped the breakfast – I can’t eat for hours after racing! I believe I won my AG but must wait for the race director to confirm my place since they don’t track Age Groups in this race. They only give cash awards to the top 10 in each gender! I took some photos of the La Gauncha area – it is one of the nicer areas of Ponce. Then I returned to the hotel for a long hot shower to soothe/relax the legs and set out to visit the old historic section of the city. It wasn’t a long walking tour – a Cathedral, Park and a few museums. Most of the shops and restaurants were closed for Sunday? So I retreated back to the El Tuque area where my hotel was located to enjoy a great seafood dinner and sunset in a nice restaurant overlooking the Caribbean Sea.
I decided to leave early Mon morning to alleviate any concern about traffic delays back to San Juan – and if I arrived early I would have time to explore Old San Juan. That plan worked out well and I enjoyed a nice 2-hr stroll through Old San Juan and took some photos to share with my readers.
It was a quick trip – a good race and now I have one day to repack and leave for Taiwan. I am surprised that I found time to write a quick trip report. It will reduce my burden when I return from Taiwan.
Stay tuned!
Friday, November 28, 2008
TR - Suriname
TRIP REPORT
SURINAME
11/19 – 11/24/08
Race Results
Suriname Srefidensi Marathon
Paramaribo, Suriname
Sat, Nov 22/08
Marathon # 311 – Country #96
4:02:16 - 1 AG
Country # 96 – SIX Down – Four to go!
This marathon and country came to my attention and plans when a friend from the Netherlands ran it a few years ago. The first question from many readers is “Where is Suriname”? It is the former Dutch Guiana and is located on the NE coast of South America between British Guyana and French Guiana and bordered on the South by Brazil. It is not easy to get to! After much research I decided to route through Trinidad & Tobago because the connections were easier and cheaper. The next problem was getting information and registered for the race. There is no website or info on the Net but I finally managed to contact a Captain in the Suriname Army who was organizing the race. The race is organized and managed by the Army!
I was on my way and all went well until I arrived in Trinidad and tried to board the connecting flight for Suriname. The airline refused to allow me on the flight because I had no visa! Visa? Somehow it never occurred to me (after all my travels) to check for a visa since most countries in SA do not require one or it can be purchased at the airport if needed. But not Suriname! I had to scramble and develop a Plan B on the fly because it was not acceptable NOT to get to Suriname and run the marathon. All my plans and arrangements were in place to run Country #100 and Suriname had to be # 96!
I checked with Information at the airport to confirm that there was a Suriname Embassy in Port of Spain. It was closed for the day so I would have to spend the night in POS and go to the embassy early. I managed to book a hotel near the Embassy and tackle the next hurdle. Trinidad and POS had been experiencing rain for the past week and the city was suffering from floods and landslides. It took 3 hours for a taxi to drive me 20Kms to the hotel because of the horrendous traffic jams due to streets closed and flooded! I was waiting at the door for the Embassy to open at 8 am. And I was worried because the notice on the door read ” You must apply for a Visa at least one week prior to departure”! I had bad visions of returning home to the US without running country # 96! However I talked to the head honcho, explained the problem and the fact that I had worked with Capt. Klein of the Suriname Army to help with the marathon and had provided free publicity for the race on my website. Thankfully they processed my Visa in 2 hrs and I was ready (and legal) to continue on to Suriname.
It was another 3-hr drive to the airport and a long wait over many Trini beers waiting for the late night flight. I finally arrived in Suriname at 1 am – and 1 day late. The airport was built by the Americans during WWII to protect the bauxite mines that were the main source of aluminum for the war effort so the airport was built near the mines and miles from the capital city of Paramaribo. I finally arrived at the hotel at 2 am and had to wake at 7 am to take a boat tour on the Suriname River. Suriname has a population of 500,000 – half live in Paramaribo with the next biggest city having a population of 8,000!
27% of the people are East Indian, 18% Creole, 15% Amerindians, 15 % Javanese and Chinese and 25% others. Many of the small villages are still inhabited by descendants of the original workers who were slaves or indentured workers from India, China, Philippines, etc. The boat cruised down the Suriname River towards the Atlantic and made a stop at New Amsterdam. The local story is that the Dutch traded New York for New Amsterdam (if so the Brits got the better of that deal). We toured Fort Amsterdam, built to protect the colony and plantations before continuing the cruise to the Commewijne River. We cruised up the Commewijne River where we visited the Frederiksdorp Plantation for lunch and stopped at Margrita and Rust & Werk – small settlements still inhabited by descendants of the original plantation workers. The only access to these villages is by boat and there are no roads in the villages. And no A/C – and the heat is unbearable! (See photos on website).This is the typical tour in Suriname – mostly Eco tours where you cruise on rivers and visit rain forests and Amerindians and sleep in tents in mosquito-infested forests! Not my cup of tea!
On Fri I needed to meet Capt. Klein to get more info on the race so I was not able to take any organized tours. Instead I did a self-guided walking tour of Paramaribo to take photos to share with my readers. I visited the historic section of the city – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I toured the Presidential Palace, Fort Zeelandia, the Waterkant and Independence Square where the race would start/finish. Then I passed a Synagogue and Mosque side –by-side that is indicative of how well the multi-cultural society gets along! I quickly learned that the heat (and sun) was unbearable between 11 am and 4 pm!
I had called Capt. Klein to learn that the marathon started at 5:30 pm on Sat and there was a pasta party on Fri night where more race details would be provided. There was a Dutch Army team staying at the same hotel and I was invited to join them to be picked up by an army bus. There were 3 runners and a coach and all spoke English which was a big help. Dutch is the official language of Suriname but most people in the capital speak English. However the presentation at the pasta party was completely in Dutch so I had to find a few volunteers to learn the specific details I needed for the race! My only complaint about the marathon was that there was NO information before, during or after the race - in English – and that led to a few problems for me! Another complaint was that I had requested Bib # 96 and they did not reserve it for me – although they reserved special bib #s for other racers that were presented during the party?
Sat was M- Day! But the race started at 5:30 pm so I had a whole day to kill? I knew that the city would close down on Sun so I did my final souvenir shopping on Sat morning and stayed in my A/C room for the afternoon. A thunderstorm began at 4 pm that was good/bad news:
Good News: The rain lowered the temps from the low 90s to the mid 80s for the start of the race
Bad News: The rain increased the humidity into the 80s (%) and the temps didn’t drop much after dark.
Fortunately I arrived at the start line around 5 pm because the Dutch coach grabbed me and informed me that I had to weigh in. Nobody informed me of that requirement at the pasta party and I had specifically asked if I needed to be at the start line early? Because of the extreme heat and humidity the weight of every runner was taken before and after the race. If a runner lost too much weight (i.e. fluids) he would be taken to the medical tent for IVs at the end of the race! I was going to make sure that didn’t happen! There was a formal starting ceremony with the Minister of Sports and other dignitaries in attendance. There were about 40 runners in the marathon, 60 in the relay and 80 runners in the Half.
As I was waiting on the start line I met two Old Farts/competitors in my Age Group – one from Barbados and one from Suriname. The Barbados runner stated that he hoped to finish under 4 hrs! I didn’t think that was reasonable (for me) with the heat but I decided that I would try to stay close to him? The race started on time and I passed 1km in 5:03! Way too fast for the heat & humidity! I tried to slow down but passed both AG competitors by the time I reached 3Km in 15:22. Surprisingly/happily there were distance markers every Km which really helped to monitor/control my pace and there were water stations every 3 Km. I drank one bottle of water (500ml) and poured one over my head/body at every station starting at 3 Km – I wanted to make sure hydration didn’t become a problem! I finally managed to settle into a smooth/easy pace by the time I passed 5 Km in 27:06 and 10Km in 53:22. I had been following a group of four young runners who were running a wee bit faster than I wanted to run but it was easier to let them pull me through the course. I was disappointed when they turned off near 11 Km for the Half and I found myself all alone! It had already turned dark and there were no runners in front of me! I ran the next 14 Km alone! Fortunately the course was well-managed with lots of volunteers and police. The roads were closed to traffic and there volunteers at every intersection. The temps didn’t seem to drop much with darkness and without anyone to push me there wasn’t much incentive to hurt so I eased off the pace. And without any runners to follow I had to focus on following the course in the dark which meant I couldn’t let the endorphins lull me into la-la land! I could read my splits but not total time in the dark which didn’t help much. As I approached the Half I could see runners coming in the opposite direction on the far side of the boulevard but I had no idea where the turn-around was or how far they were ahead of me? I reached the Half and stopped under a street light to read my watch – 1:57:28! I was surprised that my time was that fast?
And I was pleasantly surprised when I reached a turn-around point at 23 KM (2:08:08). That meant that there were runners about 1 Km ahead of me – finally some motivation to hurt and push the pace! And for extra and more serious motivation the Old Fart from Barbados was only about ½ Km behind me! Clearly he had been following me and keeping me in sight! I decided to dig deep, push the pace and pull in the runners ahead of me. That strategy should also take care of the competitor chasing me? I caught the first runner at 25 Km (2:19:28) and started pulling in many more over the next 15 Km. However when I passed 30 Km (2:42:21) I could feel my energy waning and my legs started to tighten? I figured it had to be the heat – I was drinking water like crazy and still hadn’t made a pit stop? When I reached 32 Km I stopped under a street light to check my time – 3:00:00! I would have to finish the final 10Km in 1 hour to break 4 hrs! I dug deep again and tried to push the pace but my legs started to tighten up and I eased off! I caught a young runner at 35Km (3:19:02) and encouraged him to stay with me to the finish line. Surprisingly he responded and ran with me. He was from French Guiana and I immediately seized the opportunity to ask about marathons in that country. He informed me that there are two marathons and gave me the website for his running club. Then he asked/demanded that I be quiet to save energy so he could be sure to pull me across the finish line. Sure- right! I dug deep and pushed the pace in response and by the time I passed 38 Km he had mysteriously disappeared?
When I reached the final water station at 39 Km I stopped to check my time. It was actually 3:43:11 but my old eyes misread it to be 3:45 in the dim light? I would have to run a 5 min/Km pace for the final
3 Km and I didn’t think that was possible. But I wouldn’t know unless I tried so I dug as deep as I could and lowered the hammer. All went well for about 1 Km and then both legs started to tighten and warning signals were going off to indicate that they were both close to cramping! I didn’t want to risk a serious cramp or injury just to break 4 hours so I wisely backed off the pace and continued jogging. When I reached 41 Km near Independence Square I tried to pick up the pace again in response to the cheers from the spectators but again my legs sent warning bells that they were close to cramping and I wisely jogged across the finish line in 4:02:16.
I was escorted directly to the weigh station where I learned that I had lost 1.5 Kg (3.5 lbs) in spite of drinking gallons/liters of water during the race. Fortunately it was within safety limits and I didn’t need any IVs. Since I had no idea what the Age Groups were or if there were any awards I decided to go back to the hotel for a long hot shower. I returned about one hour later and was grabbed by the coach of the Dutch team who explained that I had just missed the awards for my age group and had won 1st place! He accompanied me to the podium and helped me collect the 1st place trophy for Men 55+ and an envelope. I was shocked when I opened it and found $200 (US) cash! Well I had plenty of extra money to buy Suriname beers to celebrate! When I finished a (very) late dinner and beers at 2 am they were still drinking/partying at the outdoor cafes and in the streets?
On Sundays the country and city closes down. There are no tours, no shops open, etc. I tried to relax around the hotel pool with a beer but Maddog could only stand inactivity for about 30 minutes and then we explored another section of the Historic city and took more photos to share with my readers. I enjoyed a seafood dinner at a nice restaurant overlooking the Suriname River - a local fish called ‘bang bang’ – OK but not great! Since I had an early (6am) flight the hotel shuttle left for the airport at 2:30am!
I am back home and catching up on sleep after all those early mornings! I have three weeks to rest and prepare for the final two marathons/adventures before the end of the year. Fortunately the next trip will be a quick/easy direct flight to Puerto Rico. I think I can see a light at the end of the tunnel?
Stay tuned!
SURINAME
11/19 – 11/24/08
Race Results
Suriname Srefidensi Marathon
Paramaribo, Suriname
Sat, Nov 22/08
Marathon # 311 – Country #96
4:02:16 - 1 AG
Country # 96 – SIX Down – Four to go!
This marathon and country came to my attention and plans when a friend from the Netherlands ran it a few years ago. The first question from many readers is “Where is Suriname”? It is the former Dutch Guiana and is located on the NE coast of South America between British Guyana and French Guiana and bordered on the South by Brazil. It is not easy to get to! After much research I decided to route through Trinidad & Tobago because the connections were easier and cheaper. The next problem was getting information and registered for the race. There is no website or info on the Net but I finally managed to contact a Captain in the Suriname Army who was organizing the race. The race is organized and managed by the Army!
I was on my way and all went well until I arrived in Trinidad and tried to board the connecting flight for Suriname. The airline refused to allow me on the flight because I had no visa! Visa? Somehow it never occurred to me (after all my travels) to check for a visa since most countries in SA do not require one or it can be purchased at the airport if needed. But not Suriname! I had to scramble and develop a Plan B on the fly because it was not acceptable NOT to get to Suriname and run the marathon. All my plans and arrangements were in place to run Country #100 and Suriname had to be # 96!
I checked with Information at the airport to confirm that there was a Suriname Embassy in Port of Spain. It was closed for the day so I would have to spend the night in POS and go to the embassy early. I managed to book a hotel near the Embassy and tackle the next hurdle. Trinidad and POS had been experiencing rain for the past week and the city was suffering from floods and landslides. It took 3 hours for a taxi to drive me 20Kms to the hotel because of the horrendous traffic jams due to streets closed and flooded! I was waiting at the door for the Embassy to open at 8 am. And I was worried because the notice on the door read ” You must apply for a Visa at least one week prior to departure”! I had bad visions of returning home to the US without running country # 96! However I talked to the head honcho, explained the problem and the fact that I had worked with Capt. Klein of the Suriname Army to help with the marathon and had provided free publicity for the race on my website. Thankfully they processed my Visa in 2 hrs and I was ready (and legal) to continue on to Suriname.
It was another 3-hr drive to the airport and a long wait over many Trini beers waiting for the late night flight. I finally arrived in Suriname at 1 am – and 1 day late. The airport was built by the Americans during WWII to protect the bauxite mines that were the main source of aluminum for the war effort so the airport was built near the mines and miles from the capital city of Paramaribo. I finally arrived at the hotel at 2 am and had to wake at 7 am to take a boat tour on the Suriname River. Suriname has a population of 500,000 – half live in Paramaribo with the next biggest city having a population of 8,000!
27% of the people are East Indian, 18% Creole, 15% Amerindians, 15 % Javanese and Chinese and 25% others. Many of the small villages are still inhabited by descendants of the original workers who were slaves or indentured workers from India, China, Philippines, etc. The boat cruised down the Suriname River towards the Atlantic and made a stop at New Amsterdam. The local story is that the Dutch traded New York for New Amsterdam (if so the Brits got the better of that deal). We toured Fort Amsterdam, built to protect the colony and plantations before continuing the cruise to the Commewijne River. We cruised up the Commewijne River where we visited the Frederiksdorp Plantation for lunch and stopped at Margrita and Rust & Werk – small settlements still inhabited by descendants of the original plantation workers. The only access to these villages is by boat and there are no roads in the villages. And no A/C – and the heat is unbearable! (See photos on website).This is the typical tour in Suriname – mostly Eco tours where you cruise on rivers and visit rain forests and Amerindians and sleep in tents in mosquito-infested forests! Not my cup of tea!
On Fri I needed to meet Capt. Klein to get more info on the race so I was not able to take any organized tours. Instead I did a self-guided walking tour of Paramaribo to take photos to share with my readers. I visited the historic section of the city – a UNESCO World Heritage Site. I toured the Presidential Palace, Fort Zeelandia, the Waterkant and Independence Square where the race would start/finish. Then I passed a Synagogue and Mosque side –by-side that is indicative of how well the multi-cultural society gets along! I quickly learned that the heat (and sun) was unbearable between 11 am and 4 pm!
I had called Capt. Klein to learn that the marathon started at 5:30 pm on Sat and there was a pasta party on Fri night where more race details would be provided. There was a Dutch Army team staying at the same hotel and I was invited to join them to be picked up by an army bus. There were 3 runners and a coach and all spoke English which was a big help. Dutch is the official language of Suriname but most people in the capital speak English. However the presentation at the pasta party was completely in Dutch so I had to find a few volunteers to learn the specific details I needed for the race! My only complaint about the marathon was that there was NO information before, during or after the race - in English – and that led to a few problems for me! Another complaint was that I had requested Bib # 96 and they did not reserve it for me – although they reserved special bib #s for other racers that were presented during the party?
Sat was M- Day! But the race started at 5:30 pm so I had a whole day to kill? I knew that the city would close down on Sun so I did my final souvenir shopping on Sat morning and stayed in my A/C room for the afternoon. A thunderstorm began at 4 pm that was good/bad news:
Good News: The rain lowered the temps from the low 90s to the mid 80s for the start of the race
Bad News: The rain increased the humidity into the 80s (%) and the temps didn’t drop much after dark.
Fortunately I arrived at the start line around 5 pm because the Dutch coach grabbed me and informed me that I had to weigh in. Nobody informed me of that requirement at the pasta party and I had specifically asked if I needed to be at the start line early? Because of the extreme heat and humidity the weight of every runner was taken before and after the race. If a runner lost too much weight (i.e. fluids) he would be taken to the medical tent for IVs at the end of the race! I was going to make sure that didn’t happen! There was a formal starting ceremony with the Minister of Sports and other dignitaries in attendance. There were about 40 runners in the marathon, 60 in the relay and 80 runners in the Half.
As I was waiting on the start line I met two Old Farts/competitors in my Age Group – one from Barbados and one from Suriname. The Barbados runner stated that he hoped to finish under 4 hrs! I didn’t think that was reasonable (for me) with the heat but I decided that I would try to stay close to him? The race started on time and I passed 1km in 5:03! Way too fast for the heat & humidity! I tried to slow down but passed both AG competitors by the time I reached 3Km in 15:22. Surprisingly/happily there were distance markers every Km which really helped to monitor/control my pace and there were water stations every 3 Km. I drank one bottle of water (500ml) and poured one over my head/body at every station starting at 3 Km – I wanted to make sure hydration didn’t become a problem! I finally managed to settle into a smooth/easy pace by the time I passed 5 Km in 27:06 and 10Km in 53:22. I had been following a group of four young runners who were running a wee bit faster than I wanted to run but it was easier to let them pull me through the course. I was disappointed when they turned off near 11 Km for the Half and I found myself all alone! It had already turned dark and there were no runners in front of me! I ran the next 14 Km alone! Fortunately the course was well-managed with lots of volunteers and police. The roads were closed to traffic and there volunteers at every intersection. The temps didn’t seem to drop much with darkness and without anyone to push me there wasn’t much incentive to hurt so I eased off the pace. And without any runners to follow I had to focus on following the course in the dark which meant I couldn’t let the endorphins lull me into la-la land! I could read my splits but not total time in the dark which didn’t help much. As I approached the Half I could see runners coming in the opposite direction on the far side of the boulevard but I had no idea where the turn-around was or how far they were ahead of me? I reached the Half and stopped under a street light to read my watch – 1:57:28! I was surprised that my time was that fast?
And I was pleasantly surprised when I reached a turn-around point at 23 KM (2:08:08). That meant that there were runners about 1 Km ahead of me – finally some motivation to hurt and push the pace! And for extra and more serious motivation the Old Fart from Barbados was only about ½ Km behind me! Clearly he had been following me and keeping me in sight! I decided to dig deep, push the pace and pull in the runners ahead of me. That strategy should also take care of the competitor chasing me? I caught the first runner at 25 Km (2:19:28) and started pulling in many more over the next 15 Km. However when I passed 30 Km (2:42:21) I could feel my energy waning and my legs started to tighten? I figured it had to be the heat – I was drinking water like crazy and still hadn’t made a pit stop? When I reached 32 Km I stopped under a street light to check my time – 3:00:00! I would have to finish the final 10Km in 1 hour to break 4 hrs! I dug deep again and tried to push the pace but my legs started to tighten up and I eased off! I caught a young runner at 35Km (3:19:02) and encouraged him to stay with me to the finish line. Surprisingly he responded and ran with me. He was from French Guiana and I immediately seized the opportunity to ask about marathons in that country. He informed me that there are two marathons and gave me the website for his running club. Then he asked/demanded that I be quiet to save energy so he could be sure to pull me across the finish line. Sure- right! I dug deep and pushed the pace in response and by the time I passed 38 Km he had mysteriously disappeared?
When I reached the final water station at 39 Km I stopped to check my time. It was actually 3:43:11 but my old eyes misread it to be 3:45 in the dim light? I would have to run a 5 min/Km pace for the final
3 Km and I didn’t think that was possible. But I wouldn’t know unless I tried so I dug as deep as I could and lowered the hammer. All went well for about 1 Km and then both legs started to tighten and warning signals were going off to indicate that they were both close to cramping! I didn’t want to risk a serious cramp or injury just to break 4 hours so I wisely backed off the pace and continued jogging. When I reached 41 Km near Independence Square I tried to pick up the pace again in response to the cheers from the spectators but again my legs sent warning bells that they were close to cramping and I wisely jogged across the finish line in 4:02:16.
I was escorted directly to the weigh station where I learned that I had lost 1.5 Kg (3.5 lbs) in spite of drinking gallons/liters of water during the race. Fortunately it was within safety limits and I didn’t need any IVs. Since I had no idea what the Age Groups were or if there were any awards I decided to go back to the hotel for a long hot shower. I returned about one hour later and was grabbed by the coach of the Dutch team who explained that I had just missed the awards for my age group and had won 1st place! He accompanied me to the podium and helped me collect the 1st place trophy for Men 55+ and an envelope. I was shocked when I opened it and found $200 (US) cash! Well I had plenty of extra money to buy Suriname beers to celebrate! When I finished a (very) late dinner and beers at 2 am they were still drinking/partying at the outdoor cafes and in the streets?
On Sundays the country and city closes down. There are no tours, no shops open, etc. I tried to relax around the hotel pool with a beer but Maddog could only stand inactivity for about 30 minutes and then we explored another section of the Historic city and took more photos to share with my readers. I enjoyed a seafood dinner at a nice restaurant overlooking the Suriname River - a local fish called ‘bang bang’ – OK but not great! Since I had an early (6am) flight the hotel shuttle left for the airport at 2:30am!
I am back home and catching up on sleep after all those early mornings! I have three weeks to rest and prepare for the final two marathons/adventures before the end of the year. Fortunately the next trip will be a quick/easy direct flight to Puerto Rico. I think I can see a light at the end of the tunnel?
Stay tuned!
Tuesday, November 11, 2008
TR - Tunisia - Part 2
TRIP REPORT
TUNISIA
10/25 – 11/5/08
Part 2
Now where were we? Oh yes! It was Sat and Race Day in the Sahara Desert!
The races were scheduled to start at 8am so we were bussed out into the desert near Nefta to a location close to a highway where the final 10Km (that we had driven a few days before) began. The weather was nice- sunny and in the high 50s (F) around 8 am – and no siroccos! I expected the marathon to start at 8am but instead they ran a few fun races for the kids. I was concerned about the delay and missing the cool morning temps but it was fun to watch the kids participate with their parents and all the runners cheering them on. The marathon/half/10K finally started at 8:45am.
Although there were water stations every 2.5 Km I wore a water belt for two reasons:
1) For safety (I wanted a supply of water with me at all times)
2) To carry a new, small compact camera I had bought with the intention to take photos along the course (if the race wasn’t competitive)
There were two loops/courses – a 10Km loop and a half-marathon loop. We all ran the same course to the 4.5Km mark where the 10Km runners turned left for the shorter loop. I let the 10Km runners surge ahead and lead the way. Jean Jacques had warned me that the course was difficult and not to expect to finish under 5 hours! From what I had seen of the course I agreed and figured 5 hours was a reasonable goal?
The course had been laid out with Quads that had left a track across the desert that was also marked with blue plastic bags. At first everyone ran in the tracks made by the Quads thinking that they had compacted the sand and made an easier path? I soon learned that it was easier to run off the tracks on the virgin desert. The desert had a thin crust on the surface. The Quads had broken through the crust and the tracks were soft and deep! However if I ran on the hard crust the footing was much better and faster! As we reached the turn-off point at 4.5Km for the 10K runners I thought I might be lonely until four runners passed me and continued on the half-marathon course. There were two females and two male runners and one male looked like he was in my Age Group? They were running just a wee bit faster than me so I decided to drop in behind and follow them. A pattern quickly emerged. I would catch up to them at each water station where everyone would stop to drink water and leave the cup at the station (environmental rules). It would take them about 30 secs to drink their water and take off again and build up another short lead on me. I also stopped at each water station even though I was carrying a full bottle of water – don’t know why? When we reached a water stop at 9.5Km (52:15) we turned into the desert towards the Chott el-Gharsa. The next 5 Kms of the course crossed a series of small sand dunes – called ‘dunettes’. That was tough running! The dunettes were only 1 to 3m high but were continuous – like running a washboard! It was difficult to maintain any kind of rhythm and I soon found myself falling farther behind the group of four in front of me. After a few Km they had increased their lead to about 250m and although I could see 10 Km across the desert I had difficulty finding them in the dunettes. I needed to close the lead and pushed the pace! I passed both females in the next 2 Km and the young male runner as we approached a water station at 14.5Km (1:26:16). Only the ‘old fart’ remained ahead of me and when he saw me closing the lead he pushed his pace and increased his lead again. At that point the course left the dunettes and ran across the Chott el-Gharsa. On this section of the course it was easier and faster to stay in the Quad tracks since they had compacted the soft lake surface. We reached the next water stop at 17 Km (1:36:47) where the course left the Chott and started into a series of huge BASDs (Bad Ass Sand Dunes)! They were the same ones we had surfed a few days before and ranged from 10 to 20m in height! I wasn’t sure how to run/tackle those BASDs? I tried to run in the Quad tracks like the old fart ahead of me. Disaster! I quickly sank up to my knees in sand! I moved out of the tracks and looked for an unused (virgin) route up the BASDs. I learned that if I stayed on the crust and landed ‘softly’ and moved my feet quickly they would barely sink into the sand and I was able to climb those BASDs quickly and easily! Descending was trickier because gravity and momentum caused the foot plant to be heavier and it was necessary to turn my feet over faster to prevent them from sinking into the sand once I broke through the crust. Using this desert strategy I caught up to the old fart at the top of the final BASD! He responded by taking off like a scared rabbit?
He had a slight advantage – he knew I was running the marathon but I wasn’t sure if he was and I didn’t want to waste energy trying to pass a half-marathon runner. I decided to follow him to the (Half) finish line (21Km) and if he was running the marathon I would need a better strategy than just chasing him? I decided in the 2nd half I would start using my water bottle and skip the water stations which would save me several minutes. I followed the old fart into the water station at the half finish line in 2:03:03! Damn – that was a lot faster than I thought possible for that course! And I finally got a look at his Bib #2 – that meant he was running the marathon! I skipped the water station and continued through the finish line to begin the 10Km loop. I wasn’t surprised when he charged by me around 22 Km. This SOB was not going to give up! I decided to run a smooth easy pace, drink water from my bottle every 15 minutes and follow this worthy competitor through the first section of the 10Km loop. It was easier to follow him than trying to follow the Quad tracks and spot the blue course markers. Once we returned to the Chott and the BASDs I could take the lead. When he reached the first water station on the 10Km loop he made his first mistake – he skipped the water stop because I was too close? Hydration would be important by the end of the race! When we reached the next water station at 25.5 Km (2:31:40) he was forced to stop for water and I passed him. This was the point where the 10Km loop turned into the desert and started into the dunettes for the second time. I was happy when he came charging by me again to take the lead through the dunettes because it was easier to follow him than to follow the course. When we left the dunettes and started across the Chott for the second time he made his second mistake. He ran a tangent or short-cut across the Chott! Initially I followed him but quickly realized the surface was too soft and required a lot of energy/effort to run and moved back to the Quad tracks. I ran farther but expended less energy. When we left the Chott and started up the BASDS for the final time he had increased his lead to 250m but I used my proven desert strategy and looked for virgin routes up and down the BASDs. I caught him again at the top of the final BASD. I expected him to take off again but this time he ran with me for the next 1 Km back to start/32Km point?
I was going to ask him what age group he was in so we could determine if it would be necessary to kill each other over the final 10Km but then I thought to myself “No I don’t want to know. He has pushed me through this course faster than I thought possible and he is hurting me – but he isn’t killing me! If I find out we are in different age groups I will probably slow down!” I decided it was better if I believed he was in my age group and I had to beat his ass! We reached the water stop at 32Km in 3:11:11. We both stopped for water but he gained a logistical advantage when there were no bottles of water readily available to refill my water bottle. By the time I refilled my bottle and looked up he had established a lead of 250m! He had thrown the gauntlet down! It was clear that he was not going to quit and it was going to be an ugly/painful pissing match for the final 10Km!
I was not concerned for two reasons:
1) We had driven the final 10Km a few days before and I knew it was a 4X4 track used by all the tour groups to drive back into Nefta. It was firm and compact and that section of the course would be more like a road race – my preference and strength!
2) The final 10Km would come down to guts and willingness to accept pain! I had all the confidence in the world in Maddog’s willpower and ability to accept pain.
Let the pissing match begin!
I lowered the hammer and began the chase. My heart monitor started beeping wildly to warn me that it had exceeded 90% Max. I ignored it and continued to push the pace. But each time I would close the lead to 100m that SOB would respond and push harder! He had earned my respect but Maddog was pissed and even more motivated to bury his ass! We dug deeper and pushed harder and ignored the frantic beeps of my heart monitor (now at 95% Max) and were rewarded when we noticed that the old fart started to fade around 34Km! At 34.5Km he made his final – and fatal - mistake! He skipped the water station! It was now Noon and the sun was getting hot - hydration would be critical over the final 7Km. Sure enough he soon faded - the lead closed and I passed him around 36Km. I was sure that he would try to respond and stay with me so I accelerated when I blew by him to discourage any response. I never let up or looked back for fear he would consider it a weakness!
When I passed the water station at 36.6Km (3:42:34) I hoped that he would be wise and desperate enough to stop for water? I continued to push the pace and did not look back until Jean Jacques came by in a Quad. I stopped to refill my water bottle and stole a glance back. I had a lead of 250m but the old fart was still coming after me. Jean J informed me that I had about 3 Km to the finish line and I was in fifth place. I now had a full water bottle and a good lead for the final push. When I reached the Palmeraie and made a left turn at 40Km I stole another glance over my shoulder – my lead had increased to 500m. I knew I had him! I looked at my watch – just over 4 hours. Damn - if I could hold a fast pace I could finish under 4:15?
The final 2Km through the Palmeraie were on a firm service road shaded by palm trees so I allowed myself to slow just a wee bit to ease the pain level and quiet my heart monitor! When I reached the end of the Palmeraie and started up a short steep hill into Nefta I could see a course marker indicating a sharp left turn and it read “Arrivee a 100 m”. I glanced at my watch – 4:12. I decided to sprint up the hill and the final 100m. All was going well until I reached the top of the hill and changed my momentum to make the hard turn. My right hamstring cramped and locked up! I tried to ignore it and limp across the finish line but the cramp/pain was so severe I was forced to stop 50m before the finish line to stretch and massage the leg for one minute to ease the pain enough to limp/drag the leg across the finish line at the Hotel Caravanserail in 4:13:27!
Needless to say I was happy – ecstatic – with my race. That was one of my best and most satisfying race performances in a long time! I had finished 5th Overall and my time of 4:13 qualified for Boston. In fact I was the only runner in the marathon (including the Tunisian who won in 3:37) that finished that tough desert course with a BQ time!
I walked/limped around the finish area to wait for my friend/competitor to finish in 4:18. I finally asked him his age? SHIT – only 52! But I didn’t care and I thanked him for pushing me to a fast finish. I am not sure he shared my appreciation? We both waited for the winning female to finish in 4:37 before we enjoyed a log hot shower and a nice BBQ lunch at the hotel – washed down with a few COLD Tunisian beers of course! After lunch all runners were bussed back to our hotel in Tozeur to rest and prepare for the awards ceremony and post-race party on Sat evening.
Sat evening started with an awards ceremony that was well organized and began with awards presented to the kids for the fun run. Since I did not finish in the top three I had to be satisfied with an award for winning my AG. It was a lovely ceramic plate hand-made by a local artisan. I like those kinds of awards. Following the ceremony we enjoyed a great post-race dinner and party with champagne/beer/wine and dancing. It was my farewell dinner with my new friends.
On Sun morning we were bussed back out to the Jebel en-Nebeg Range near Degache for a short hike into a canyon. The tour staff had driven 4X4s into the canyon and set up a stereo/PA system so we could listen to classical music in the canyon (with amazing acoustics) while sipping champagne for a final toast to friends and a great week! I had to pack and leave for the airport after the hike since I was flying back to Tunis. I had decided that if I was going all the way to Tunisia I might as well visit Tunis for a few days?
The main tour group left Mon so I figured I would be alone on the flight to Tunis but the winner of the marathon – a doctor from Tunis was also on my flight so we enjoyed a long discussion about the race and marathons. I now have a good contact in Tunisia for future info on Tunisia and N. Africa.
I arrived at my hotel in Ville Nouvelle in time for a late dinner. I ate nothing but seafood for the 3 days I was in Tunis – a whole grilled fish with a bottle of wine cost less than $20 – and I was sick of buffet food! Tunis is the capital of Tunisia with a population of 2 Million. What a difference from Tozeur. The traffic and streets were so busy there was no way I could run. I decided my legs deserved a few days to rest!
Tunis dates back to the 8th Century BC when the Phoenicians founded the city of Carthage on Byrsa Hill. At the end of the 3rd Punic War in 146 BC the Romans destroyed Carthage and built the 3rd largest Roman city outside of Italy on top of the ruins. In the 4th and 5th centuries Carthage was ruled by the Vandals (Vikings) and the Byzantines before being captured by the Arabs in 695 AD. The Arabs destroyed the Roman city and used the building materials to build a new city in Tunis in an area called the Medina. In the 19th Century the colonizing French built Ville Nouvelle (new town). Medina is now a listed Unesco World heritage site.
On Mon I walked through the Port de France into the Medina and followed the advice of my guide book and wandered aimlessly among the Souks (markets) and back alleys of the old city. I visited the Zaytouna (Great) Mosque, the Place de la Kasbah and other tourist sites during my walking tour. I was not worried about getting lost because I could always ask for directions to the Mosque or the Port de France! After many hours of wandering and getting lost I finally had enough harassment by the souvenir hawkers and scam artists and decided to retreat back to Ville Nouvelle to visit the few tourist sites in that section of the city. Ave Habib Bourguiba – the main boulevard- is lined with shops, bars and cafes. Most of the bars and cafes have outdoor patios on the Ave. It seemed strange to watch the locals sipping coffee and water at the outdoor patios. A strange Islamic law forbade alcohol outside. It was permissible to drink a beer inside the café but everyone smoked and the bars were not pleasant to sit in!
I was supposed to meet up with a German friend (travel agent) who was escorting some clients to the Sahara Desert but somehow we mixed up our dates and never did connect? However he had kindly arranged for a private English-speaking guide to tour me around the sites outside of Tunis on Tue. The guide picked me up at 9am and we drove directly to Byrsa Hill in Carthage. We visited the Antonine Baths, the La Marsa Cisterns and the Musee de Carthage. The Roman ruins were a disappointment (for reasons given above) especially when I have seen very well preserved Roman ruins in other parts of Africa and the Middle East! The modern suburbs of Carthage built around the ruins are now an exclusive residential area for ambassadors and the wealthy of Tunisia. The location and views are spectacular - just like they have been for thousands of years!
From Carthage we drove to Sidi Bou Said, another suburb located on the coast. All the buildings are painted white and blue (by law) and it is very picturesque with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and Carthage! Because of the setting it is home to many artists and poets.
We concluded the tour with a visit to the Bardo Museum. It is housed in one of Tunisia’s finest palaces – the former residence of the Husseinite beys - built in the 12th century and refurbished in the 17th century. The palace is magnificent itself with Moorish tiles on the walls and artwork and sculptured ceilings and it contains the largest collection of Roman and Byzantine mosaics in the world! I am not much of a museum person but I was awed by all the magnificent mosaics – many looked like the day they had been made. There were also exhibits of Phoenician and Roman antiquities. And the oldest exhibit I had ever seen – a religious monument that was supposedly 40,000 years old!
After a hard and exciting day of tours I returned to the bars/cafes of Ave Habib Bourguiba to relax and enjoy a few COLD Tunisian beers- and a delicious seafood dinner! It was time to go home!
I am back home with only a few weeks to train for the next marathon/adventure in South America!
Stay tuned!
TUNISIA
10/25 – 11/5/08
Part 2
Now where were we? Oh yes! It was Sat and Race Day in the Sahara Desert!
The races were scheduled to start at 8am so we were bussed out into the desert near Nefta to a location close to a highway where the final 10Km (that we had driven a few days before) began. The weather was nice- sunny and in the high 50s (F) around 8 am – and no siroccos! I expected the marathon to start at 8am but instead they ran a few fun races for the kids. I was concerned about the delay and missing the cool morning temps but it was fun to watch the kids participate with their parents and all the runners cheering them on. The marathon/half/10K finally started at 8:45am.
Although there were water stations every 2.5 Km I wore a water belt for two reasons:
1) For safety (I wanted a supply of water with me at all times)
2) To carry a new, small compact camera I had bought with the intention to take photos along the course (if the race wasn’t competitive)
There were two loops/courses – a 10Km loop and a half-marathon loop. We all ran the same course to the 4.5Km mark where the 10Km runners turned left for the shorter loop. I let the 10Km runners surge ahead and lead the way. Jean Jacques had warned me that the course was difficult and not to expect to finish under 5 hours! From what I had seen of the course I agreed and figured 5 hours was a reasonable goal?
The course had been laid out with Quads that had left a track across the desert that was also marked with blue plastic bags. At first everyone ran in the tracks made by the Quads thinking that they had compacted the sand and made an easier path? I soon learned that it was easier to run off the tracks on the virgin desert. The desert had a thin crust on the surface. The Quads had broken through the crust and the tracks were soft and deep! However if I ran on the hard crust the footing was much better and faster! As we reached the turn-off point at 4.5Km for the 10K runners I thought I might be lonely until four runners passed me and continued on the half-marathon course. There were two females and two male runners and one male looked like he was in my Age Group? They were running just a wee bit faster than me so I decided to drop in behind and follow them. A pattern quickly emerged. I would catch up to them at each water station where everyone would stop to drink water and leave the cup at the station (environmental rules). It would take them about 30 secs to drink their water and take off again and build up another short lead on me. I also stopped at each water station even though I was carrying a full bottle of water – don’t know why? When we reached a water stop at 9.5Km (52:15) we turned into the desert towards the Chott el-Gharsa. The next 5 Kms of the course crossed a series of small sand dunes – called ‘dunettes’. That was tough running! The dunettes were only 1 to 3m high but were continuous – like running a washboard! It was difficult to maintain any kind of rhythm and I soon found myself falling farther behind the group of four in front of me. After a few Km they had increased their lead to about 250m and although I could see 10 Km across the desert I had difficulty finding them in the dunettes. I needed to close the lead and pushed the pace! I passed both females in the next 2 Km and the young male runner as we approached a water station at 14.5Km (1:26:16). Only the ‘old fart’ remained ahead of me and when he saw me closing the lead he pushed his pace and increased his lead again. At that point the course left the dunettes and ran across the Chott el-Gharsa. On this section of the course it was easier and faster to stay in the Quad tracks since they had compacted the soft lake surface. We reached the next water stop at 17 Km (1:36:47) where the course left the Chott and started into a series of huge BASDs (Bad Ass Sand Dunes)! They were the same ones we had surfed a few days before and ranged from 10 to 20m in height! I wasn’t sure how to run/tackle those BASDs? I tried to run in the Quad tracks like the old fart ahead of me. Disaster! I quickly sank up to my knees in sand! I moved out of the tracks and looked for an unused (virgin) route up the BASDs. I learned that if I stayed on the crust and landed ‘softly’ and moved my feet quickly they would barely sink into the sand and I was able to climb those BASDs quickly and easily! Descending was trickier because gravity and momentum caused the foot plant to be heavier and it was necessary to turn my feet over faster to prevent them from sinking into the sand once I broke through the crust. Using this desert strategy I caught up to the old fart at the top of the final BASD! He responded by taking off like a scared rabbit?
He had a slight advantage – he knew I was running the marathon but I wasn’t sure if he was and I didn’t want to waste energy trying to pass a half-marathon runner. I decided to follow him to the (Half) finish line (21Km) and if he was running the marathon I would need a better strategy than just chasing him? I decided in the 2nd half I would start using my water bottle and skip the water stations which would save me several minutes. I followed the old fart into the water station at the half finish line in 2:03:03! Damn – that was a lot faster than I thought possible for that course! And I finally got a look at his Bib #2 – that meant he was running the marathon! I skipped the water station and continued through the finish line to begin the 10Km loop. I wasn’t surprised when he charged by me around 22 Km. This SOB was not going to give up! I decided to run a smooth easy pace, drink water from my bottle every 15 minutes and follow this worthy competitor through the first section of the 10Km loop. It was easier to follow him than trying to follow the Quad tracks and spot the blue course markers. Once we returned to the Chott and the BASDs I could take the lead. When he reached the first water station on the 10Km loop he made his first mistake – he skipped the water stop because I was too close? Hydration would be important by the end of the race! When we reached the next water station at 25.5 Km (2:31:40) he was forced to stop for water and I passed him. This was the point where the 10Km loop turned into the desert and started into the dunettes for the second time. I was happy when he came charging by me again to take the lead through the dunettes because it was easier to follow him than to follow the course. When we left the dunettes and started across the Chott for the second time he made his second mistake. He ran a tangent or short-cut across the Chott! Initially I followed him but quickly realized the surface was too soft and required a lot of energy/effort to run and moved back to the Quad tracks. I ran farther but expended less energy. When we left the Chott and started up the BASDS for the final time he had increased his lead to 250m but I used my proven desert strategy and looked for virgin routes up and down the BASDs. I caught him again at the top of the final BASD. I expected him to take off again but this time he ran with me for the next 1 Km back to start/32Km point?
I was going to ask him what age group he was in so we could determine if it would be necessary to kill each other over the final 10Km but then I thought to myself “No I don’t want to know. He has pushed me through this course faster than I thought possible and he is hurting me – but he isn’t killing me! If I find out we are in different age groups I will probably slow down!” I decided it was better if I believed he was in my age group and I had to beat his ass! We reached the water stop at 32Km in 3:11:11. We both stopped for water but he gained a logistical advantage when there were no bottles of water readily available to refill my water bottle. By the time I refilled my bottle and looked up he had established a lead of 250m! He had thrown the gauntlet down! It was clear that he was not going to quit and it was going to be an ugly/painful pissing match for the final 10Km!
I was not concerned for two reasons:
1) We had driven the final 10Km a few days before and I knew it was a 4X4 track used by all the tour groups to drive back into Nefta. It was firm and compact and that section of the course would be more like a road race – my preference and strength!
2) The final 10Km would come down to guts and willingness to accept pain! I had all the confidence in the world in Maddog’s willpower and ability to accept pain.
Let the pissing match begin!
I lowered the hammer and began the chase. My heart monitor started beeping wildly to warn me that it had exceeded 90% Max. I ignored it and continued to push the pace. But each time I would close the lead to 100m that SOB would respond and push harder! He had earned my respect but Maddog was pissed and even more motivated to bury his ass! We dug deeper and pushed harder and ignored the frantic beeps of my heart monitor (now at 95% Max) and were rewarded when we noticed that the old fart started to fade around 34Km! At 34.5Km he made his final – and fatal - mistake! He skipped the water station! It was now Noon and the sun was getting hot - hydration would be critical over the final 7Km. Sure enough he soon faded - the lead closed and I passed him around 36Km. I was sure that he would try to respond and stay with me so I accelerated when I blew by him to discourage any response. I never let up or looked back for fear he would consider it a weakness!
When I passed the water station at 36.6Km (3:42:34) I hoped that he would be wise and desperate enough to stop for water? I continued to push the pace and did not look back until Jean Jacques came by in a Quad. I stopped to refill my water bottle and stole a glance back. I had a lead of 250m but the old fart was still coming after me. Jean J informed me that I had about 3 Km to the finish line and I was in fifth place. I now had a full water bottle and a good lead for the final push. When I reached the Palmeraie and made a left turn at 40Km I stole another glance over my shoulder – my lead had increased to 500m. I knew I had him! I looked at my watch – just over 4 hours. Damn - if I could hold a fast pace I could finish under 4:15?
The final 2Km through the Palmeraie were on a firm service road shaded by palm trees so I allowed myself to slow just a wee bit to ease the pain level and quiet my heart monitor! When I reached the end of the Palmeraie and started up a short steep hill into Nefta I could see a course marker indicating a sharp left turn and it read “Arrivee a 100 m”. I glanced at my watch – 4:12. I decided to sprint up the hill and the final 100m. All was going well until I reached the top of the hill and changed my momentum to make the hard turn. My right hamstring cramped and locked up! I tried to ignore it and limp across the finish line but the cramp/pain was so severe I was forced to stop 50m before the finish line to stretch and massage the leg for one minute to ease the pain enough to limp/drag the leg across the finish line at the Hotel Caravanserail in 4:13:27!
Needless to say I was happy – ecstatic – with my race. That was one of my best and most satisfying race performances in a long time! I had finished 5th Overall and my time of 4:13 qualified for Boston. In fact I was the only runner in the marathon (including the Tunisian who won in 3:37) that finished that tough desert course with a BQ time!
I walked/limped around the finish area to wait for my friend/competitor to finish in 4:18. I finally asked him his age? SHIT – only 52! But I didn’t care and I thanked him for pushing me to a fast finish. I am not sure he shared my appreciation? We both waited for the winning female to finish in 4:37 before we enjoyed a log hot shower and a nice BBQ lunch at the hotel – washed down with a few COLD Tunisian beers of course! After lunch all runners were bussed back to our hotel in Tozeur to rest and prepare for the awards ceremony and post-race party on Sat evening.
Sat evening started with an awards ceremony that was well organized and began with awards presented to the kids for the fun run. Since I did not finish in the top three I had to be satisfied with an award for winning my AG. It was a lovely ceramic plate hand-made by a local artisan. I like those kinds of awards. Following the ceremony we enjoyed a great post-race dinner and party with champagne/beer/wine and dancing. It was my farewell dinner with my new friends.
On Sun morning we were bussed back out to the Jebel en-Nebeg Range near Degache for a short hike into a canyon. The tour staff had driven 4X4s into the canyon and set up a stereo/PA system so we could listen to classical music in the canyon (with amazing acoustics) while sipping champagne for a final toast to friends and a great week! I had to pack and leave for the airport after the hike since I was flying back to Tunis. I had decided that if I was going all the way to Tunisia I might as well visit Tunis for a few days?
The main tour group left Mon so I figured I would be alone on the flight to Tunis but the winner of the marathon – a doctor from Tunis was also on my flight so we enjoyed a long discussion about the race and marathons. I now have a good contact in Tunisia for future info on Tunisia and N. Africa.
I arrived at my hotel in Ville Nouvelle in time for a late dinner. I ate nothing but seafood for the 3 days I was in Tunis – a whole grilled fish with a bottle of wine cost less than $20 – and I was sick of buffet food! Tunis is the capital of Tunisia with a population of 2 Million. What a difference from Tozeur. The traffic and streets were so busy there was no way I could run. I decided my legs deserved a few days to rest!
Tunis dates back to the 8th Century BC when the Phoenicians founded the city of Carthage on Byrsa Hill. At the end of the 3rd Punic War in 146 BC the Romans destroyed Carthage and built the 3rd largest Roman city outside of Italy on top of the ruins. In the 4th and 5th centuries Carthage was ruled by the Vandals (Vikings) and the Byzantines before being captured by the Arabs in 695 AD. The Arabs destroyed the Roman city and used the building materials to build a new city in Tunis in an area called the Medina. In the 19th Century the colonizing French built Ville Nouvelle (new town). Medina is now a listed Unesco World heritage site.
On Mon I walked through the Port de France into the Medina and followed the advice of my guide book and wandered aimlessly among the Souks (markets) and back alleys of the old city. I visited the Zaytouna (Great) Mosque, the Place de la Kasbah and other tourist sites during my walking tour. I was not worried about getting lost because I could always ask for directions to the Mosque or the Port de France! After many hours of wandering and getting lost I finally had enough harassment by the souvenir hawkers and scam artists and decided to retreat back to Ville Nouvelle to visit the few tourist sites in that section of the city. Ave Habib Bourguiba – the main boulevard- is lined with shops, bars and cafes. Most of the bars and cafes have outdoor patios on the Ave. It seemed strange to watch the locals sipping coffee and water at the outdoor patios. A strange Islamic law forbade alcohol outside. It was permissible to drink a beer inside the café but everyone smoked and the bars were not pleasant to sit in!
I was supposed to meet up with a German friend (travel agent) who was escorting some clients to the Sahara Desert but somehow we mixed up our dates and never did connect? However he had kindly arranged for a private English-speaking guide to tour me around the sites outside of Tunis on Tue. The guide picked me up at 9am and we drove directly to Byrsa Hill in Carthage. We visited the Antonine Baths, the La Marsa Cisterns and the Musee de Carthage. The Roman ruins were a disappointment (for reasons given above) especially when I have seen very well preserved Roman ruins in other parts of Africa and the Middle East! The modern suburbs of Carthage built around the ruins are now an exclusive residential area for ambassadors and the wealthy of Tunisia. The location and views are spectacular - just like they have been for thousands of years!
From Carthage we drove to Sidi Bou Said, another suburb located on the coast. All the buildings are painted white and blue (by law) and it is very picturesque with stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and Carthage! Because of the setting it is home to many artists and poets.
We concluded the tour with a visit to the Bardo Museum. It is housed in one of Tunisia’s finest palaces – the former residence of the Husseinite beys - built in the 12th century and refurbished in the 17th century. The palace is magnificent itself with Moorish tiles on the walls and artwork and sculptured ceilings and it contains the largest collection of Roman and Byzantine mosaics in the world! I am not much of a museum person but I was awed by all the magnificent mosaics – many looked like the day they had been made. There were also exhibits of Phoenician and Roman antiquities. And the oldest exhibit I had ever seen – a religious monument that was supposedly 40,000 years old!
After a hard and exciting day of tours I returned to the bars/cafes of Ave Habib Bourguiba to relax and enjoy a few COLD Tunisian beers- and a delicious seafood dinner! It was time to go home!
I am back home with only a few weeks to train for the next marathon/adventure in South America!
Stay tuned!
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